"HO SCALE 25 PCS BRASS STRAIGHT TRACK MADE IN ITALY BRAND NEW" Code 100, for $29.99? Sorry if partial to "brass' but ebay's not all bad. I had this in my "saved for later" shopping cart when another, unrelated problem arose . . A "multi-purpose fuel pump relay #409" for my '03 VW is selling 'new' for between $65 to $100 ? ? ? I think NOT ! ! Found a "used one" on ebay for $19 figured worth a shot! Long story short have been struggling to pass GA vehicle emissions and, upon replacing cam-position-sensor TWICE & adjusting valve timing, darn thing still cranks but now WILL NOT START at all? It click click clicks only (no fuel/ignition?) was driving 'ok' before messing with it so AGGH, what now! Did ya's know this fancy relay also seems to power the heater circuit on the O2 sensors? (the other 'check engine' code been dealing with)? Will update with results later bottom line is -> got 4 more, all different, error codes than when I started but one's gotta love PayPal's "pay in 4" interest-free!
My grandfather (mother's side) was a career Frisco lineman, most of it on the QA&P. That's part of the reason we moved out here and definitely the reason I model the Frisco. The tiny town we live in is on the old Orient Line, which became the AT&SF in 1926ish. So there's some Santa Fe on the layout, as well. Also a little T&NO, Rock Island...
These 4 followed me home switching back to ho the beginning of my lumber train 4 McKean opera window center beams undec kits more to follow
Am looking to buy LED lighting from evemodel and found one (of many?) handy wiring designers here: How To Wire Up LED Lights On Your Model Railway
Last part of the narrow gauge for standard gauge trade I did a month or so ago. It's a Hallmark / Rock Island R67 4-8-4. These were manufactured by Goto and are wonderful models. There is a very high level of detail; they run great; and they're soldered together by good old Japanese craftsmen (probably craftswomen-that's who built most of the brass models), so parts don't fall off. It looks nice and is the only bare brass locomotive I have, so it may not get painted.
Is that squarish looking big dome atop the boiler a sand dome? That tender is huge, that engine had a bit longer crew districts I bet.
Yes, it's a sand dome. Quite a few of the later super power steam locomotives had sand domes like that. Look at C&O and Nickel Plate Berkshires, for example.
This week I received my Rapido Wabash E8 that will be used to haul the Bluebird passenger train. Rick Jesionowski
Sweet and a half! Rapido didn't skimp on the details! I have a Proto Wabash E8 and it's a beauty too.
Went to SuperTrain in Calgary this weekend. It was a great show again. And again, I spent too much money. Or so my wife says. But I picked up this Broadway Limited Paragon 4, 2-8-0 Consolidation. What a beautiful locomotive. Sound is great, runs as smooth as butter, and the detail, though not 100% prototypical of the CPR 2-8-0's, is extremely good. And it's close enough for me. And my grand kids are going to love because of the smoke. This is my first steam loco that has the smoke timed to the chuffs. And it's pretty cool i must admit. But I'll only run the smoke when the grand kids are over.
Finally learned something 'bout 'slip-switches'. Rather than thinking in terms of "straight' or 'turnout', like a more typical switch, one can simply connect the two sets of 3 diff colored wires together with one controller then, depending on direction loco is approaching from, just set controller to either "left' or 'right'. WELL DUH much easier on brain no 'bout a'doubt it!
Yea they do! Ebay seller Busy Beaver Toys has a lot of unusual, neat stuff too their custom (3D printed?) track bumpers work perfectly with my Atlas roundhouse track. With the front two legs on track and the back set against the built-in stop the loco couplers don't hit and the whole thing, if bumped, doesn't budge AND, very much unlike the standard Atlas end stops, they only take up less than a 1/2 inch of parking space (as loco's are very long, can't close doors regardless)! While speaking 'bout roundhouse track I've decided, if cut to exact length, to let them 'float' rather than glue/fasten them down using very thin, 26g "wrapping wire" for power. Also, I posted here a general 'q' 'bout LEDs & resisters can anyone affirm or deny? In using momentary switch machines to power yard, any/everything off 'mainline' I see no reason why I cannot use 1 Atlas relay, powered by 2 separate reverse-loop approach tracks, to auto-control two RG signal LEDs?
A picture of what I mean: while 'Y'ellow would conx to Snap Relay power (24v switch machines), all "On" all the time, RG switching would be subject to which approach track power being 'tested' (via, of course, momentary power of the two insulated rails crossed).
Well, OK, here's a couple of items I got this past month: Athearn Genesis Frisco GP7 544. DC only, but I plan on adding a DCC down the road. It'll also get decent weathering and real couplers (Kadees) to replace the McHenrys. Sent from my LM-X210CM using Tapatalk