Atlas did make curved turnouts many moons ago, I've had curved Shinaharo turnouts (code 100) on my layout for over 15 years now with no problems.
Originally posted by JPB: I'm still looking for a distributor who carries rail. You guys also mentioned gauges that you use. I've had really good luck with Caboose Hobbies in Denver; they'll ship Micro Engineering Code 50 and 72 rail with arrival in 2 or 3 days; also they have a good selection of three-point and rolling-pin track gauges. I've also had good luck with Elmer's Pro-Bond glue for hand laying Code 55 rail and turnouts. Charles
John, I buy my rail and other supplies from Model Railroad Post Office (MRPO) in New Jersey. I live 40 minutes from them, so I visit the store, however they are a good sized mail order shop and in my experience always have rail in stock. They advertise regularly in Model Railroad Craftsman, their phone # is 800-328-6776. Whoever you buy from, make sure to get at least three 3-point gauges, they'll know what you want. In addition to being able to build beautifully flowing turnouts, handlaying them will save you big bucks. Good luck, Gary
John, I have found it more convenient to set one rail at a time. I start by "tacking" (with hot glue) one end to the ties and then work my way along the rail until the whole thing is placed where I want it. Leave a little room of the rails' end to get a fishplate under it though. I have laid long strings of single rails this way, then using that rail as an anchor, place my three point gauges on it and on the opposing rail that is to be set adjacent to it. I have some old Kemtron "Skeleton" 3 point gauges that I prefer to use, especially when laying my turnouts because I can see the rail(s) and my work better. But I also have some Kadee 3 point gauges that work well otherwise. As for holding the rail where you want it during the gluing process, I have used everything from a ramdom spike to "C" clamps. I guess it would be up to you and what you find convenient for your own particular situation. Don't be afraid to experiment. As I mentioned earlier, I use a couple of large sockets from my tool box as heat sinks behind where I have already glued the rail. It doesn't take much heat to soften the hotglue again so it's really not a big problem. The weight of the sockets also help hold the rail in place. Another plus about using hot glue is that after you lay the rail .. you can go back and reheat the rails to make make small adjustments .. ie, make smoother easements and "iron out" little kinks in the curves. As for problems with melting plastic .. I can't add anything to that problem. I have not used plastic ties (flextrack) for eons. But when I do solder leads to the rails, I use my Hot Tip resistance soldering unit to do so. It delivers instantaneous heat to exactly the point I need it without even scorching the wooden tie under it. Superelevations ... I guess that's something you will have to decide for yourself. It's a personal thing for each of us. Personally, I have never used them on my layouts. The scale is soooo small that I doubt that a correctly scaled super would be perceptible to the naked eye.
