Does anyone know if the Digitrax DZ126T (or anything else out there) would work in the TomyTec TM-LRT01 power chassis? Am reading where the trams are not DCC compatible but looks like there is more than ample room inside for a micro decoder. Am not concerned about sound or lighting. Here is my conundrum - I need to power a total of four trains, with future expansion plans for two more. One is on an elevated track so it will have to be DC and two are these TT trams. I would really like to hear I can do DCC for everything but the el, because otherwise I am looking at a minimum of 3 DC trains, at which point I would probably run the whole thing DC since I'm also planning on way more scenery lighting - mostly fiber optic strand - than what a sane person would power with 9Vs, not to mention turnouts. Still in the planning stages so either is fully doable, one just seems like way more work
Not DCC compatible basically means (in most cases) there's a direct connection between incoming power and the motor. Yes, it's possible to sever that, if you're proficient with tiny hardware. They're both a lot of work--DC when you run it, DCC when you set it up.
Are they saying that there is not a 'drop-in' decoder for it or for another reason? As far as I can see almost anything can be made to work with a decoder if there is room. Looking at pictures of the chassis ( HERE ) I don't see anything to think otherwise, again if there is room. Looks like the second unit might have room. Have you done a 'hard-wired' decoder install? They are all similar in essence. I've used a number of the 126T's but if you want the smallest for a few dollars more look at the ESU 59826 LokPilot 5 Micro ( HERE ). It is probably about as small as you are going to find and a nice decoder. Sumner
I'd agree with that. Even if Tomy is not normally DCC-ready, installing a decoder in pretty much any model can be done. The text you included seems pretty standard for hardwiring a decoder. I would disassemble the model and investigate where to put the decoder, as well as inspect the circuitry to see if it's even accessible. You might have to make a few light modifications to break the circuit between the pickup and motor, especially if it's a single copper piece.
I don't have any power unit/controller at all yet, trying to figure out which direction(s) I can go before I spend a significant amount of money on anything. I wish I could lie and say that DCC makes perfect sense to me, but for what I am trying to accomplish it seems to be what makes the most sense. It would not take long at $40-50/pop on DC transformers for 4-6 trains plus scenery lighting to pay for a decent entry-level DCC. Which, after reading these responses and seeing that others out there have been able to accomplish, I am leaning a little harder towards now.
I'm not sure how much power TT trains draw compared to N or HO scale. Depending on the motor driver board selected for use in a DCC++EX setup, it may or may not be able to run 4 TT trains, plus accessory decoders for layout lighting. A higher current DCC system, or a booster, may be needed(?).
I should add that if you opt for a higher ampacity system (with a single track bus output), you may want to consider multiple lower amperage circuit breakers, each driving an isolated section of the layout. This keeps the available current in a short circuit lower (and thus generating less heat to melt/burn things) than with a higher ampacity system directly powering the whole layout. Using a smaller ampacity system and one or more boosters provides the same benefits, albeit usually at a higher price. Boosters are generally more expensive than circuit breakers.
If you're running short trams, that may not apply. The age of your motive power factors in too, with older units (older models, not new models of older prototypes) being the bigger power hogs.
These are N-scale, the "TT" used above just refers to TomyTec, the makers of Tomix. I would bet these draw less than 0.1 amps under normal usage.
I thought it would be best for me to go DCC with my planned 9' x 10' N scale layout to simplify wiring. But then I started figuring out the cost of putting decoders in my 7 locos (now up to 9), plus if I might buy DCC equipped locos in the future, plus buying an NCE Power Cab. Ouch! Also, I realized I would most likely be the only one running any trains on my layout. I decided to wire the layout with one huge block rather than having a number of them for no reason. I also realized I could leave unused locos on Kato sidings, which are power selective... when switched for mainline running, the sidings are powerless. Hmm... amperes, wattage and volts, ohm my...
Again read the full DCC++ EX linked above. Specifically https://dcc-ex.com/advanced-setup/supported-motorboards/IBT_2-motor-board-setup.html with a very cheap higher amp motor driver you can have a system that is plenty of amps for whatever you could possibly need. Going to be way cheaper than anything commercial and will get you DCC if you are willing to invest just a couple hours time. The electronics part of it is real basic! If you don't think you can or are willing they ya you need to go a commercial route as you've outligned or just stick with DC.
I'll stick with DC, since I'm REALLY technologically impaired! Hmm... it took Kisatchie two weeks to replace the burned out lightbulbs in my treehouse...
