Been thinking about this since I got my diode laser last fall. Could I use it to make detailed masks for airbrushing? Last month I tried an experiment with rattle can paint and blue masking tape. Results were... kind of gross. But, it did indicate to me that this might be feasible if a little more care and better materials were chosen. So, I ordered some 18mm Tamiya tape. I already had some new paint from an order a couple weeks ago, and I had my airbrush that I haven't used since I got it a few years ago. The 18mm Tamiya perfectly covers the entire side of my shell. Win. I then used a toothpick to burnish the tape, conforming it as best I could to the cracks and raised details. Once that looked good, I took it to the laser and carefully aligned the shell (this is a process I'd need to improve if I were to make a thing of this) I did a test cut on the side of my first attempt just to make sure the laser would cut the Tamiya - did okay there. Anyway, I held my breath to see if this would actually work and after the cut took the results to the workbench to peel off the letters. To my surprise the letters came off very cleanly. The only issue was that some of the adhesive did some cheese pull. I regret having used the "B" side of my first test because that awful white base was crummy rattle can, very splotchy so I'm not able to tell how clean the edges are, but suffice to say it was way, way better than my first attempt at this. Here's the picture series... 1) freshly cut from the laser 2) painted after letters removed 3) complete mask removed: Here is attempt 1 with the cheap blue painters tape and rattle can...yuck. My Tamiya test cut area (square) can be seen where the cab is located: Anyway, wanted to share with our train builder community here as I haven't seen anyone try this yet. I may post more successful results when or if they happen. Cheers -Mike
It looks promising. I used to work with an artist about a decade ago on some joint projects. When she did this type of stenciling, she would apply the stencil and then paint over it with whatever was the background color. This helped seal between the tape/stencil and the wall so the final paint wouldn't bleed under the tape. In your case, try applying the stencil, spray on some white primer or paint, after that's dry, spray on the final red color.
Thanks - I did another test. I should have blasted white prior to using the yellow so the vibrancy matched the other areas but as far as usability I think it's passable. I also still need to work out alignment (I have a couple ideas) but overall this was a good test on a trash shell: I may strip this shell down and give it another go with the white undercoat... -Mike
Mike What type laser are you using? Bare bones or one that is enclosed in the big case? I have the latter and was also thinking I could use it in this fashion. 60W with a work area of about 16" x 16" and USB interface. I have not played with this much and would need to find out where the laser power needs to be so there are not holes in the shell.
I'm using a NEJE Master 2S+ with the A40640 module. The "true" output of the laser is around 12W. Marketing sold it as a 40W laser but that's how much power it uses, not outputs. I had already read that it was really around 15W when I bought it since most diode laser manufacturers were rating their lasers this way and people were talking. NEJE has since updated their specs to show 12W. Anyway, with that I'm running at 35% power 1200mm/m to cut the Tamiya tape. I haven't tried to drill holes in my shell with it but I did check to see if the laser was damaging it. What I discovered is that it does burn through any paint on the shell, but the shell itself is unscathed at that setting. Depending on how thick the paint is it could look like the shell is being cut in to. I haven't done a whole of lot model rr related work with the laser yet. I'd like to get air assist going and start cutting thicker materials but I've been too swamped with the 3D printing side of things to engage too many new projects. Be sure to share what you're doing when you start getting into it! Mike
Mike - good looking widget and I suspect that you will have fun with it. Also suspect that you will hoop jump and have hair pulling out moments while figuring out "how do I do this" parts. Hang in there! Mine is a CO2 with mirrors and spot laser ( red ) to get stuff aligned. Being used to horizontal mills, I had one of those DUH moments when first looking at the thing. I.E. how do you clamp the work item on to the deck? Well, DUH there are not any lateral forces at the focus plane that will move the work. It just seems so un-natural just to lay it in place. Although I will clamp in 2 corners as the thing does vibrate somewhat and that could micro move the work piece. As to pix and stuff, gonna be another 4 months before we get off the road, then railroad and house will be my job. Have been buying tools and widgets for the last few years to help in making stuff. Last thing I need is a small lathe and the "big" stuff will be done. That is if we ever get done with the buying part! Later
Mike and Todd, Have you seen any of rray's threads? He is a former laser technician creating parts in Z scale. He cuts decals, make wood structures, cuts plastic, and is currently cutting brass. He creates really nice stuff. Here are some of his threads: NP Lester WA T-Trak Z Module Set Project Z Scale NP Style Crossbucks Mikado Update to NP Class W-3 Mike Diorama: Ship Dock with Buildings Scott
Wow, and in Z scale. Just shows ya of what tolerance you can hold. I did not find anything about laser cutting brass. Me thinks that one would need a more powerful laser than what I have with the metal stained black or some dark color to avoid reflection. 0.010 brass is pretty skinny and might work.
Todd, I'm not sure what you found, but he did the cross bucks out of a sheet of .004" thick Phosphor Bronze. He also was cutting brass for brake wheels and railings I think. https://www.trainboard.com/highball/index.php?threads/my-new-toy.143357/ Scott
Yeah I've been admiring his work for near 20 years at this point. I like seeing what his new toys can do. I always thought the fiber lasers were neat and now he's got that going and doing really cool stuff with it. Next up for my baby laser is I'll probably draft up an alignment jig and continue playing around with various ideas while I'm learning how to integrate it with my 3D printing projects. Cheers -Mike
