Nice details on screw placement in the joinery. However, the screws into end-grain pine (indicated in last pic) add very little holding power (even with the added 1/8" length), compared to the four screws into the cross-grain of the crossbeams, themselves screwed into the cross-grain of the legs. I'd skip those on future joints.
Well actually 3/8" added length (thanks for bringing that to my attention). I had a senior moment I guess as all the screws that were labeled 1 7/8" in the photos are actually 1 5/8". Sorry about that, I fixed it (at least on this page). As far as I know they don't make a 1 7/8" grabber screw (at least the lumber yard here doesn't have them. If you don't see the changes try refreshing your browser or look at the page ( HERE ). Since I put pilot holes in I'm pretty sure they aren't splitting the wood. Going into end grain might not be as strong but I doubt that any of us could pull that joint apart and the weight of the layout puts those screws in shear not tension also. I don't mind spending the extra 20 cents or so on the screws . To be clear I'm not trying to tell anyone how to build framework, only showing what I do. I've seen other's framework and appreciate them putting it up and have used some of their ideas and would encourage others to show us what they have done. Andy do you have any pictures? I try and keep in mind that I'm building something that doesn't have to be all that strong, just practical and something that can be build with whatever tools one has on hand. I'm lucky to have lots of options tool wise so might do things that aren't practical for another person. Sumner
I would avoid using those kind of screws in the usual low grade of lumber readily available. But, it appears you are using a much better grade of lumber. If used properly they will hold very well.
Yes good point. My local lumber yard has way better lumber overall than what I found in the 'big box stores' when I looked while working on our boat in Florida. I'd recommend one to look at the local lumber yard along with the bigger stores before buying. I usually don't pre-drill holes when using the grabbers since they have a small central shank but have been taking the extra few seconds to do that per screw on the framework. I've used thousands of those screws over the years with projects such as ....... the shelving i recently put up for the train items ( HERE ) and love them. I have shelving all over the shop, house and storeroom similar to that. Have found the grabbers hard to find some places but here they are available a block from the house. Sumner
By GRABBERS are you referring to what here is called deck screws? Usually used hold treated lumber together. Small shank, deep threads. Usually courser pitch to threads than wood screws. Even the shank above the threads are even smaller and flatter head flange.
There are different types and deck screws I think are included in the general definition but I use the 'Gold' and sometimes the black when I can't find the gold in the size I want. I've had a hard time finding gold 1 inch so use black 1 inch if I need a 1 inch screw. Google them like ( HERE ) for more info and hopefully the end of my next post will also help. Sumner
Elevator Section Part 3: Framework for the last section is finished. The framework in this section is a little different due to the track elevator being located in the section. There is less overhang by the elevator so that it can sit closer to the edge as only a single run-around-track needs to be at the layout edge. . . I'm glad I'd taken the time to make the Roundhouse/Turntable pattern. It allowed me to catch the framework cross-member clearance problem. It wasn't huge as I could of cut them out later from below and moved them but much easier now. . I've gone with this construction to have a 3 inch free zone below the layout about everywhere for switch machine clearance. Above I've placed the risers in enough locations to hold up the layout surface for now. Later if I need to move some as there is a switch machine in that area I only need to remove a couple screws I can get to from under the layout and move the riser a short ways to where it isn't in the way. Some of the plywood in this area, the elevator track area, will be supported by the elevator once it is cut free from the plywood sheet in this area. I'm not going to make that cut until I've also laid out the upper level that attaches to the track elevator. For the time being I needed to support the plywood in that area so put in two long horizontal supports that can be removed from below later. . Time to start laying out the upper level especially where it will connect to the track elevator when it is in the upper position. Thought I'd add a picture that hopefully explains the type of 'grabber' screws I'm using and the drills I use with them. I've built tons of stuff using them and love them and for what I've been doing and don't use old fashion wood screws anymore but I'm sure they still have there place in some instances. The grabbers have a small diameter shank inside of the threads. Usually this means to prevent the wood from splitting you don't need to drill pilot holes like you would with most wood screws. If I'm using good lumber over 3/4” thick or plywood to lumber and the screws aren't close to each other I drive the screw in without a pilot hole or drill a shallow 9/6” hole just to make starting the screw easier. The magnetic bit on the screw gun (drill with the bit in it) holds the screw. This is really handy and can really speed up construction. If you want to screw two boards together you don't need to clamp them together first in most instances. I'll hold the one board on the other with one hand where I want it. Then with my free hand I'll grab a drill and drill a pilot hole if I want one. Set the drill down and grab the screw gun with a screw on the bit and run it into the two boards. An easy and fast operation. On to the upper level continued...... Link to this build index ( HERE ) Sumner
Sumner, I'm not suggesting that your design is not strong enough; quite the opposite! I was pointing out that an extra, time-consuming step, with additional, different, and more expensive fasteners than used elsewhere, is unnecessary (if not for you, then perhaps for others copying your methods), even in dynamic load conditions. Your assumption that the loads are in shear applies only in the static state. When the layout is leaned on, moved/scooted, bumped, etc., the stresses on some joints (depending on direction of lateral forces) transition from shear to tension, and some of them become MUCH larger than when in the static condition. With leverage provided by rigid members, the tension forces can be very large. Furniture joinery design is seldom limited to handling only static conditions, but must also handle dynamic forces applied when furniture is used, moved, etc. For example, what happens to to a table/leg joint when the table is leaned on or dragged/pushed across the floor, as opposed to just standing there, loaded up with a Thanksgiving feast? Even a building design must accommodate dynamic forces from wind, earthquakes (if applicable) and occupants. A floor that is statically strong enough to support a crowd of occupants standing or sitting around, must also handle them moving and dancing!
Thanks for the information on Grabbers. The Decking screws have even lease of a shank and less pitch. Where you used two or three I would use at least four. I only have access to True Value and Ace. Would need help getting to Menard's, Lowe's or Home Supply. Or maybe mail order if they have them. Thanks again for the info and watching your work. It's as interesting as most of the layouts and scenery.
Sum Look at these: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwauk...V8QutBh31RQ4CEAQYASABEgIN7_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
For made-in-USA countersink drill bits/sets, check out those made by Snappy Tools. Snappy has both tapered and non-tapered bits/sets and other types. Non-tapered drill bits are less expensive. I have no affiliation with them, other than as a very satisfied user. Their collet-style hex shank adapters/sets (available down to 1/32") are also a good solution for using small drill bits in a large-capacity chuck on a drill press, without having to swap out the chuck.
I'm edging the layout with 1 X 2's (actually 3/4” X 1 1/2”). It will kind of frame the layout, protect the foam board edges and be a place where you can lean against or lay you arm on. . . . . . . . . . To be continued ….......... Link to the build index (HERE). Sumner
Sumner, this is a great tutorial for the average model railroad builder! Some get frustrated like me, when they just see the before, and then the finished project and think we'll never get that accomplished! Looking forward to all your progress pics!
Track Elevator Part 4: Getting closer to see if this is going to work or if I've spent a lot of time on an elevator that might have to turn into a helix. . . . . . . . . . To be continued ….......... Link to the build on my site ( HERE ). Sumner
Track Elevator Part 5: Time to test with the additional weight of the track surface on the elevator. . . . . . . . . . For a YouTube video click on the picture above or ( HERE ). Link to build index page on my site ( HERE ). To be continued ….......... Sumner
