I just love micro pre-wired LEDs and fiber optics. How about you ? Summer is here, be safe in the heat !
Joe, thanks for the comment and interest. Here is the interior as I was building. Small batt box for 2 1.5v batts and the switch mounted on floor. With 3v, no resistors needed. No flicker either: I drilled a small hole in roof and here is how I operate the switch : The hardest part was adding 4 strands of .50 fiber optic, should have used .25, oh well live and learn.
Here is another foobie that I recently did. BTW, I did the same batts/switch set up, as shown above, for the lights :
Carl... I remember watching the video of the 'vandals' painting that locomotive for the first time. As much as I dislike 'taggers' and 'tagging' in general I found that one interesting. UP quickly dragged that locomotive to one of their shops and primered over the graffiti. The 'Rail Beast' lives on in your model and I really like your videos of it on the head end of multiple trains. The sound file in yours is a riot !!!!!! Thank you... .
Thanks George, I really enjoyed this foobie paint job. Trying to save up some pennies ( $$ ) to get an ESU LS5 Nano DCC for it.
That's a misperception. Regardless of the supply voltage, a resistor is required to ensure that the operating current does not exceed the maximum rating for the LED.
As the OP stated: "Small batt box for 2 1.5v batts and the switch mounted on floor. With 3v, no resistors needed." Again, with no resistor, what limits the current through the LED to either the current that results in the desired level of illumination or - if nothing else - the maximum rating for the LED? A "3V" LED is a misnomer. That voltage spec is simply the forward voltage drop through the LED. Some value of resistor is still needed to set or limit the current that flows through the LED.
This might be a stupid question, I'm not knowledgable about electronics, but is it possible for the two 1.5v batteries to deliver more than 3v?
Point, I totally disagree with what you are spewing here BUT I am not an electrical engineer, as you must be, nor knowledgeable enough to argue, discuss, with you. I understand your forward voltage comment! Having stated that, maybe you can explain to me, simply, how I have managed to use 3.2v, very small surface mount LED's, all sunny whites & some warm whites on a layout refinery scene. BTW, I have over 100 of the LEDs attached to a 3v buss system under the table that is powered by a regulated 3v walwart. All I know is it works and I have not lost one LED in 10 years now. Thanks for the interaction !
To pursue this further, access to the manufacturer's specifications for the "3.2V" LEDs and the 3V regulated power supply would be needed. Would you provide links to that information?
Now that's what I've been talking about. It doesn't matter what you know. There are answers out there waiting for you to find them. As long as it works. My number one rule when it comes to wiring.
