Well, I just received my first Broadway Limited M1B, I had planned on buying a few more of their steamers, but I think I just changed my mind. I thought with paying out that kind of money, they would at least install a "working" knuckle coupler on the front of the engine for double heading out of the box. After all they mention about "muting" the sound for double heading on their specs sheet. So my question is. Has anyone successfully installed a Kaddee, Bachmann E-Z Mate or McHenry on the front of the BLI's M1B? If so, is it a task you would recomend for a beginner? Also, the sound to me sounds bland, generic and really doesn't match up to the drive rods. Any HELP would greatly be appreciated. Also, with in minutes, the engine started to squeak big time. I think it's the drive rods, anyone recommend any brand of oil to use? Plus, for some reason, not all wheels on the loco touch the rails. Thanks [ 12. June 2004, 20:28: Message edited by: ilovetrains ]
Hello NS, Don't have experience with this model. But, not having all drivers touch the rails is a major alignment gaf. The squeaking may be related to this misalgnment. I believe BLI cautions the new owner to lubricate, before operating the loco. If you don't have access to a hobbyshop, go to a suitable store and pick up a bottle of silicone, or Teflon. Some of these come with a small tube for applying the lube. I have a bottle of it; not a pressurized canister. It's possible that after lubing and running, the drivers may drop. You may have to run it awhile. Try to get up into the gearing in your lubing. As far as the coupler, many modelers do not doublehead, especially these larger locos. Coupler---Contact Mike Womack, Max Model trains. Ask him your question directly, or read his discussion site. This question may already have been asnwered.
Stop! Before doing anything, call the BLI support line. Tell them exactly what you are experiencing. There could be a major fault in the quality of your particular model (sometimes a lemon will get by any company's QC) or it could be just something that has to be tweaked. Either way, I'd suggest doing nothing until you have contacted them. I know the sound problems are an easy fix with DCC programming, but if you're running it DC, then you should get some instruction. When the Class A first came out, everyone said it was too dang loud, but when they all found out how to adjust it with programming, they loved it. Let us know what happens, after you contact BLI.
Hello, I've already got an email into their site. I listed my concerns, because I thought there were suppose to be high quality items, but to me, it's nothing more then a Bachmann Spectrum. Hopefully they'll respond. Until then, I'm holding off on getting anymore of their stuff. I had plans on getting a few more M1B's along with the new J1.
If you really want help, I suggest picking up the phone and calling BLI. No body treats email like real mail. I don't have one of those, but do have some BLI steam locos. I love them. The instructions say to lubricate the exterior points. My second Class A let me know right quick I had forgotten something when I didn't lube it. I use Labelle light oil (102 or 107 whichever it is). The instructions can also tell you how to tweak the sound. But, if it isn't in time with the drivers I'd say something is amiss, because all of mine are. As to the drivers not touching the rails, that sounds like a problem you may not be equipped to address, since you call yourself a beginner. Unless you know someone who knows what they are doing, I suspect a trip to BLI may be in order for your loco. Since I don't run DCC, coupling (and uncoupling) for doubleheading consists of using the big hand from the sky, and the dummy works okay for that.
Thanks to those who resonded! And it looks like a phone call is going to be necessary! Since they don't answer emails!
I have two BLI ATSF 4-8-4, both needed lube and oil. However, I installed a Kadee on the front of one of them, took about 2 minutes, 1 minute to remove the dummy, another to put the Kadee in its place. Bob
Is the Kadee fully fuctional?? Per my conversation with them, they said it's possible to doublehead with the dummy one, and that they knew of no way of converting to a Kadee, but then again, they also said the side rods were made of medal, when in fact, they are plastic.
My 4-8-4's came with a Kadee coupler in a plastic parts sack and instructions to remove the dummy, which includes the coupler box, and install the Kadee. I don't like the looks particularily, but it is functional. Bob
Oh, that it explains it then. When I was on the phone with them, they said all new models come with an extra kadee coupler that you just snap out the dummy and replace, this isn't so, with the older units, like the M1b etc...
the Kadee included is a number 6, extended shaft. However, you can't put a kadee box in there, just the coupler, secured with the screw from the original. Bob
I don't have any experience with your model, but I do have experience with Broadway. I know I am a couple of days late, but this is what I found with my Class A, and some other Broadways that some of my fellow club members own. Broadway steamers will squeak. The best way to cure this is to keep them lubricated, the drive rods and the axles. I use the liquid Labelle oil that has the needle like applicator. When I first got my "A" I ran it a couple of hours and it died. At first I thought it might have been with the programming but I noticed one set of drivers working and the others were not. Then it just died altogether. I called Broadway and shipped it back to them. It appears that the drivers were not set up right and managed to bind up. Broadway sent me a brand new unit, and I have had only problem with it since. That was due to a screw coming loose between the last set of drivers and the trailing truck. I called Broadway up again and they sent me some new screws with no charge. Their customer service was superb. Like you I was considering double heading my "A" but I have nothing to really double head it with right now, but once the N&W Class J comes out. The 1218 and 611 did double head a couple of excursion trains
heh. Well, I'll be getting my second M1b tomorrow, so I'll be able to look at both and see what's what with them and compare them as well. I have Atlas oil on the way to for the first M1b.. Their customer service was okay for me, could have been better I think. The one I talked to was guestimating about alot of the questions I was asking him like.. for instance. Are the side rods metal. He said yes, but in fact they are plastic along with the one rod coming from the pilot part. All plastic. This I'm not to happy about. I just can't believe he said they were metal when you can look and tell they are plastic. Oh well.
LOL Stourbridge! So am I.. especially when the ones I'm buying are over $300.00. Should have my new M1b along with two Bachmann PRR K4's. I think I over rated the BLI's M1b on my web-site, but oh well, I gave them 3 stars, but that's just for "looks". Can't wait to see if Bachmann has improved their K4's. They will be rated as well. Hmm.. I buy things just to rate them. (as I look on the floor to see my oval of Atlas track in sections collecting dust, dog hair and cat hair.) [ 02. July 2004, 03:55: Message edited by: ilovetrains ]
I have to chime in here. My experience with BLI and "selected" Spectrum steamers (the 4-8-2 heavy specifically) are that they are the ONLY truly ready to run WELL units out there. The BLI's have all received one lubrication as instructed, and no squeaks or other problems since. Both my Class A's and heavy Mike run great, the sound is perfectly synchronized, and they just get smoother with use. You can even program the starting voltage to get satisfactory double heading in DC. I have called BLI several times with various questions and found them pretty informative (but, admittedly I didn't have a problem to begin with), and they have answered all my emails. I swear I would give a piece of my anatomy if QSI qould sell their sound/control units seperately. Sometimes you don't get the right person when you call any company either. If you ever have to call Proto, ask to talk to the R&D guy (Chuck, I think it was). Man, that dude is sharp as a surgeon's needle. Proto were all very nice and helpful, but that guy is in a class by himself.
Not for me. McHenrys hit the trash can when they come into the shop area for me. No likee, no useee. especially trying to use in double heading a long train. Might find your engines running apart from each other in my experience. Bob
