Does anyone ever use foam inserts that are part of packaging for items like tools and electronics? Could they used for hills and stuff? Thanks, Dan
It depends... There's (mainly) two types of foam; Expanded and Extruded. Expanded is little white beads and tends to break apart into beads when rubbed / brushed / filed. Expanded is also quite toxic when burnt. Item packaging is / used to be Expanded foam. (these days I see more cardboard, plastic, plastic "foam" with bubbles, etc) Extruded doesn't have little beads and is also quite toxic when burnt. Home insulation tends to be Extruded foam. Woodland Scenics has a range of non-toxic expanded foam that doesn't have the beading problem so much. You can use beaded foam for layout scenery; be careful to pick a glue that doesn't attack / "eat" it (true for any foam), don't inhale any fumes and be aware that you will have to stop the little beads breaking off after you're done. Several coats of an appropriate paint should help here. Beaded foam is also structurally not very strong, while extruded foam is okay; so don't expect beaded foam to hold a lot of weight without breaking!
Packing material usually comes with very straight lines and odd 90 degree angles. Even when broken up the still look like packing material. I think the best application for it in scenery is to use it as a basic shape under something more mold-able like plaster cloth or paper mache*. That will allow you to break up pieces and stack them any which way and the covering material will give you a more organic shape. That would also prevent any "beads" from being noticeable. It will still be light weight. Is this for a permanent built in layout or smaller more portable or temporary layout? (not that that will effect the use any) * I actually discourage the use of paper mache or any other food product for scenery as it has been known to attract bugs.
Thanks for your insight guys. I was thinking in terms of using it as a base for a hill or mountain and covered with plaster or something. I've heard of other techniques for creating a mountain, but I've got all this foam laying around. Any other thoughts are welcome. Thanks, Dan
Easy and cheap will be the blur or pink foamboard sold at Home Depot or Lowes, if you can part with a few bucks for a huge supply of the stuff.
As long as it is covered with plaster or paint or some type of bonding material, you should be fine using your stockpile of white beaded foam as a base for scenery. While white foam isn't as strong as blue or pink, it is fine to use UNDER your scenery. Once it's sealed in place, it stays there. And having a stockpile of the stuff, the price is RIGHT!! LOL It was white beaded foam packing material that got me re-started in building a layout after a long absence from modeling. I took the advise of a friend and purchased blue foam for the base of the layout and used my stockpile of white foam to build up from the base. Or maybe I'm just too cheap to build a layout with all blue foam! LOL Darrell, quiet...for now
I use it for scenary too. I save the bigger pieces rather than contribute to the landfill. Why use the expensive pink/blue stuff when the white stuff and it's free too!
ITS BEEN a while for comment here, so what I am asking in while I plan to the BEADED foam for my part of my Mountain Scenry as in SCOLLOPED WALLS that will allow the train to be seen on its travel, I wish to know what to SEAL the this FOAM, I have already tried a Spray can of Primer paint only to watch the FOAM melt away, so I had a sample of GLUING with MDF and PVA glue and this was covered mostly with glue around the MDF and found the GLUE stopped the foam from melting. I wish to know much glue to water is a good mix to use as a sealer, or it is just trial ad error to allow it to come out of the Spray Nozzle and and still seal the foam
Comments from a foam board user. 1) Use ANY foam you want to. White, pink, blue and green. White is usually the beaded type and makes a mess when cut/carved. Use a vacuum cleaner, lay the suction nozzle right by the area you are cutting, the closer to your knife/saw the better. The white foam is NOT as strong as pink, blue or green, but is just great for using as a filler. The price is usually right, you can find plenty of white foam available around town for FREE. Pink, blue or green can SOMETIMES be picked up at building sites. Go ASK the foreman if you can have the cut/excess pieces. REMEMBER ASK FIRST!!!! 2) For gluing foam to anything. Make sure your adhesive is LATEX BASED. Look at the label, if it states: "Cleanup with soap and water" BINGO! The label will usually also state "NON-FLAMMABLE" This is what you want to use. NEVER USE ANY ADHESIVE THAT IS FLAMMABLE or CLEANS UP WITH MINERAL SPIRITS. This type adhesive is petroleum based and will attack foam. Makes one H**L of a mess. Don't ask how I know this!!! 3) For covering/painting foam, the same basic instructions as stated in #2 above apply. LATEX ONLY. 4) For cutting, carving, shaping foam you cannot beat a HOT WIRE FOAM CUTTER. You can build your own, several different type are for sale. I've got a TIPPI HOT WIRE FOAM CUTTER and in my book the TIPPI is had to beat. It does the job. Go to:Big City Hobbies - Tippi Hot Wire Foam Cutter for more information. Sure the Hot Wire Cutter puts out some fumes, don't breathe the fumes, open a window and have a small fan lightly blowing across the cutting area will clear out any fumes. I do a lot of my cutting outside.
