Hello All, This is my first post. I recently purchased a used Athearn N-scale SD70M on Ebay. The engine runs well on straight track but slows way down on curves including wide 15" and 16.5" radius. It looks like the trucks are stuffed with lubricant and probably the whole engine. Two questions: 1) Could this excess lube be causing the drop in speed in curves? 2) What is the best way to fully clean out all old gummed up lube. Thanks for any help, Amato
I can't say if this is the cause for your drop in speed on the corners, however if there is excess oil/grease I would gently clean it off with a Q tip that was dipped in Iso alcohol, and leave one end dry so you can remove the grease once the alcohol loosened it up then re apply sparingly if needed. Solvent may hurt the plastic, and D W 40 don't know if it would help remove the extra lube or not. There should be other responses coming up shortly to also aid Good luck
I hate that white grease with a purple passion!!!! This is the downer of buying used equipment in my hobby, and not caring how much distrust my testing any loco before buying it shows. I bought one ConCor Rivarossi Challenger which is in itself a fabulous performer, but this one was purchased from a freind and so inexpensive, I didn't have any place to test it. When I got it home, I devoted at least 12 hours to cleaning the hardened, dirty, gunky, dried out white grease from the worms, gears, inside the bearings, wheels, etc, which by that time I was pretty darn hot. Not at my friend, but at myself for not taking that precaution. I did not use cotton swab, but a toothpick with the end bitten to make a small, stiff brush like tool, and used both the pointed and brushed end. Went through about 10 toothpicks full of gross smush. I purchased a package of hobby lubes that included a tube of white grease, and took great pleasure in tossing it out with a few choice vulgarities. To remove the grease take your time, use care and always keep in mind the mechanisms tend to be delicate. Good luck. I am now agonizing through my early LifeLike diesels as after 10 years since purchase, that gunk they flooded the worm boxes with is finally hardening. I can't figure out for the life of me whose idea in China it was to gunk up an otherwise fine running mechanism. The only purpose this gunk serves now is that when buying these locos, this defective practice tends to become an issue during negotiations, almost always resulting in reducing the sale price. Ken "FloridaBoy" Willaman Ken "FloridaBoy" Willaman
I'd take the trucks off and clean them manually as best you can without disassembling the truck then put them in one of those ultrasonic cleaners. You can get one at Harbor freight pretty cheap. They have three models each larger than the other. The middle size should suffice and it is currently on sale for about $25.00. I would not recommend the battery operated one. Go here to view: Search results for: 'ultra sonic cleaners' Note I got the middle priced one. Do not use 91% alcohol in it and you don't need to ask how I know that.
Hi! Why don't you take brake cleaner spray and blow away every gunk and dirt on the removed trucks? It solves (in the true sense of the word) the problem very fast and easily and the spray evaporates within seconds. After cleaning sparingly relubing and checking the worm area (you can wash it out even with the brake cleaner on a small brush) you may put it together again and ...........you are done with it if it was the real source of problem. This is the way I handle such probs if I don't like do dissasemble the whole loco and it works great for more than 10 years with no effects to the plastic parts whatsoever (don't use it on shells, just for the mechanism, ok!) BTW, I love break cleaner for washing out motors, cleaning commutator slots and the like as well! Regards Mathi
i usually disassemble the drive and wash all parts except the motor by using ordinary soap and a toothbrush. the motor then is cleaned by using 95% alcohol in an airbrush. after that very small drops are used to relube the whole drive.
Well, ain't there many ways to skin a cat? I tried a lot over the decades and finally found the specified manner the fastest and absolutely cleanest. All treated parts are totally degreased now and need to be relubed. I clean shells and other varnished parts only with warm water and a small amount of soap or dishwasher and claim it the best and safest way. Regards Mathi
Please clarify "brake cleaner spray". Is it similar to electronic cleaner (Radio Shack)? I have a couple steamers that look like they need fixin'.
Hi sharriso! Break cleaner cleans and degreases and you can buy it in every car parts store or even at K-mart. It is darn cheap, I get a big 500ml can in my country for about 4$. Electronic cleaner spray will do the job as well but empties your wallet because you might pay 10$ or more for a 100ml at the Shack (estimatedly). Regards Mathi
Use in a well ventilated area, protect plastic parts and painted surfaces. I used it for years cleaning the mechanisms on my hand guns.
Yeah firearms, thats how I found it out and thought to myself: Why nor using it on model trains! As I said before, don't use it on shells or other painted surfaces. Don't let other than metal parts soak in it for a longer time, but I spray it even on the plastic gears because it goes in seconds and does not harm plastic within that short period. I never had any problems.
I had to run my Athearn SD70 a long time before it stopped slowing down in curves. It has little to do with the grease, and more to do with it being a new, unbroken in, stiff mechanism. About using Brakleen on these models... Be careful to get the type that's safe for plastic, because there are two types. One contains toluene and acetone, and will pretty much melt any plastic or paint it comes in contact with.
I've never checked what is in those cans, I purchased the cheapest I could find but I can figure this toluene and acetone is in it due to the cheapness of the product. Anyway, I never had probs with it. A first short shot on the mechanism and 3 winks later a final wash. Then a mouthblow and another 3 winks later it is all dry and ready. No harm to plastic. If not sure or disbelieving you better try on a peace of scrap plastic before daring it in real life. On the other hand is this cleaner dedicated for cleaning car brakes and car brakes do have some rubber and plastic washers and the like. But remember, you better don't let non metal parts swim in it. I like to drink a good whiskey sometime but I would never swim in it Mathi
Just one word of caution about using Brake Cleaner... keep it away from heat sources. It releases Phosgene, a primary ingredient in Nerve Gas.. It is deadly. I like using Electronic Contact Cleaner. An Ultrasonic Cleaner is good using Jewelry Cleaner. I got my Ultrasonic cleaner online for about $50... The Jewelry Cleaning came with it.
Radio Shack is probably the easiest place to find that has Electronic Contact Cleaner and probably the "Most Expensive" If you have a Fry's Electronics Store... go there. You will be blown away with what electronics parts you can get there. Another source for Electronics Components is Mouser Electronics. They will ship the same day and in your mailbox the following day. Apply for a catalogue, Its like a Sears Catalogue for electronic components. The Catalogue is easier to find stuff than online. http://www.mouser.com
Another thing to consider. At all cost.... avoid taking the drive mechanism apart, especially Steam Loco's. After 35 yrs working with N Scale Trains and IBM Typewriters... reassembly must be the exact reverse of the disassembly... if any gear or wheel set is backwards... you will need to rerun the break-in process. I have taken Big Boy's and Challenger's apart and wished I hadn't. It took hours to get it right again. There are 2 types of Brake Cleaner... Chlorinated and Non Chlorinated... either one needs to be applied in well ventilated areas. Remeber Brake Cleaner is designed to be used for cleaning Automotive brakes. As far as being Plastic safe.... Contact Cleaner, although expensive, is the best bet. I would hate using something like Brake Cleaner on my Big Boy and have it cause a problem. Some Plastics actually become brittle when exposed to Acetone and Toluene. Soap and Water is safest.... Contact Cleaner for the tough stuff.
Thanks for all the suggestions Thank you all for great replies and help. Once I get a chance I will post how the engine is running. Unable to do modeling right now due to medical issues. Amatop
