I am having an issue with my traction tires coming off. I tried adding paint to the drivers then putting the tires back on the drivers, but they keep coming off again. My next step is to replace the tires. What are the steps for replacing the traction tires? Thanks so much
I'm just wondering out loud, did you allow the paint to dry before running again? Perhaps you applied too little paint? That technique is supposed to allow the paint to work as an adhesive between the driver and TT. If either of the above is a possibility, I suggest trying the paint technique again. If it fails again, I then suggest trying a third time, except use Bullfrog snot as the adhesive instead of the paint. On replacing the TT, it's just like most other locos. Carefully pry the drive rod pin from the wheel, slip the old TT out and the new TT in. Be extra careful not to stretch the new TT any more than needed or you may experience the same issue. I'd also suggest applying paint or BFS when installing the new TT right off the bat.
Those instructions look a bit scary, but I am sure after a few go 'rounds it would be a snap. You first Harold.:tb-tongue:tongue::ru-tongue:
I let the paint dry for 2 hours, then ran the units. I'll try the paint again and let it dry for several days and see how that works. And IF I do install new TT, I had planned to paint then install new TTs. John, I could wait until you start having the problems and let you take the lead on this. HA ha ha Thanks for the help.
SD, I know the above suggestions appear very difficult, but the alternative is to send it back to KatoUSA, pay $45 and get the same loco back with new defective tires. This I learned the hard way. What I ultimately did was to replace the defective traction tires and installation done by Kato with the silicone traction tires which last for decades made by Stewart Hobbies. Also watch out for the roof, front boiler plate and tender top falling off as the press fit will fatigue from taking it out of the overstuffed box. I know a lot of guys have good experiences with this model, but there are a very noticeable few who have had unexpected problems of many types with this loco. As for mine, it is on permanent display on my shelf. It is in complete factory repair, untouched since receipt except to test, but during the process, I irritated KatoUSA customer service (now THERE'S and oxymoron) by criticizing the design and construction of this locomotive. Meanwhile they ¤¤¤¤¤ed about how I packed it to send it back to them unexpectedly on short notice. This was apparently the harbinger of goofs made by what appears to me to be a complacent company with a blind faith market, as later we are seeing color mismatches, leaning 'Tower of Pisa" GG1's, and other issues. I still believe in them, as their modern diesels, and most other models, including the Kato Mike, are standards set for competitors to aspire. It is just they made a few goofs along the process and need to address them and take some repsonsibility rather than bad mouth their customers. I, for one, will scrap or see before I send anything back to them. It is a very expensive process. Ken "FloridaBoy" Willaman
May I suggest you forget about the traction tires. The paint thing is temporary at best. A poor solution to the problem. TT"s will continue to be a fly in the ointment, of operations. Get yourself some Bull Frog Snot. Available through most of our sponsors here on TB. You won't have to worry with TT's again... unless you get aggressive and pull the bull frog snot off. My personal preference is to replace all TT's with the Bull Frog Snot. I don't mess with the traction tires. They aren't worth the time or expense. Traction tires a poor man's excuse for a good running, hard pulling locomotive.
I did traction tires on my GS4, it really isn't that hard, I just worked on one side at a time, made sure I stashed the crank pin somewere I wouldn't loose it. what I ended up doing was holding one side of the tire in to the groove with my pinky finger nail, then used a jewlers screwdriver to strech it around the tire around the diameter of the wheel. (if that makes since) took me a whole 30 miniutes to do both sides. Tweezers and jewlers screwdrivers are your friends here. The kato instructions are pretty close to what I did. A few points of advice with this loco thought, it is a MODEL not a Toy, and needs to be treated as such. if you handle it gently, and respect it, it will last a long time, and be a good runner, if you treat it like a toy, it will fail. I bought mine 2nd hand, and it has some issues, mainly the plastic axel tubes were cracked, and let it slip out of quater. I spend some time on the phone with Kato, talking about the problem, and came to the conclusion that it was caused by sliding the locomotive along the rails, probally when first railing the thing. I replaced the drivers, and have not had a problem since. With this locomotive, you can't slide it back and forth like you would a older diesel or steamer. When you do slide it back and forth, you put lateral stress on the axel tubes, witch can cause them to crack. Also, when you slide the locomotive, it streches the tires, and eventually they will loosen up and you will end up throwing a tire. Since I replaced my drivers, I have made sure that instead of setting the loco on the rails and sliding back and forth, I tip the locomotive on it's side at about 45 degree angle, with the flanges of the drivers on the rails. Then with the other hand I use a toothpick or jewlers screwdriver to align the rest of the wheels on the rails, rock it down on to the rails. Finally, I run it acrost a Kato unitrack level grade crossing (my layout uses unitrack) to make sure that all the wheels are on. the system works well, and I have started doing the same with all my locos. I have probally 25 hours on the new drivers, and I have not had a problem with it since. Truth be told it is one of my best and most frequent runners. if you do decide to ship it back to Kato to be fixed, be sure to call them and talk to them first, I have had pretty good luck with them once I was able to get them on the phone, they offered to send me some tires for next to nothing before, Given this was for the Mike, but still. Also, if you do ship it back for repairs, be sure to use all the old packing materials, the plastic spacers and such, and pack it in a approprate box, somethign like a USPS flat rate box would be fine, and packing materials. I have heard that people shipping these back for repairs (and between seller and buyer) that didn't re use the orginal packing materials, and used Saltine boxes, cereral boxes and other thin cardboard boxes. and have had the locomotive damaged more, witch of course will cost you more money to have it repaired.
I like the idea of trying the Stewart traction tires. Del, good advice. Harold nor I ever slide these as we know what it does to the traction tires but I did not realize it would crack the axle case/tubes. That one is new to me so thank you. I would like to share how I put my loco on the rails. I start with my trusty re-railer, and mine happens to be a red Micro Trains item. Any one of the portable units will do. Position the re-railer on the tracks and hold the loco over it with the leading pilot truck aimed down toward the rail, so they go first. As I center the loco and lower it onto the re-railer my other hand begins to pull it out from under it sliding along the rails allowing the loco to be lowered onto the rails pilot wheels first. The traction tires never touch the re-railer because the flange protects it. Gently continue to slide it out from under the tender and your done in a snap with no rolling of the loco needed. Rick, the problem is that the driver has a slot in it that is so deep you could consider it a double flanged driver. Now I was thinking if mine acted up I may try the BFSnot under the tires, but then again it dries kind of rubbery so the tire would likey not stick to it. Harold, maybe its like an oil change and its just time.
John, I will pick up 2 sets of tires and install them. My two units have seen 3+ years of action so it may be time for a new set of rubber.
Take a look at this thread http://ogaugerr.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/57660482/m/9992915907?r=5922926907#5922926907 about replacing rubber bands with BULLFROG SNOT Bill
SD There is a trick to installing Stewart Traction Tires. First, make sure you get the right ones, as they have several different sizes in the same looking package. Get the N Scale Steam Traction tires, "suitable for the J3a Hudson" which has similar sized drivers. They are way undersized when in the package, but you must GENTLY work them slowly to stretch them out. It has to be done very gradually, because they could snap in the process and that one is ruined forever. If you can completely remove the driver, it makes the job much easier, neater, and faster. What I do is use a needle nose pliers instead of their installation tool which to me never worked for larger drivers. Put the ring (tire) over the closed ends of the pliers and slowly stretch it until it is just slightly larger than the driver. Put the pointed end of the pliers with the outstretched tire against the edge of the driver and slowly work the tire onto the driver, and I use a shaved end of a popsicle stick to straighten the tire out to be sure it isn't twisting. Once both tires are installed, re-install the driver back to your loco, and it is immediately waiting, and hopefully will last years of regular use. I have Stewart traction tires on my Kato Hudsons which have lasted for years and years of use in pulling and running situations with little or no signs of wear or tear. These are made of clear silicone and I hear are very hearty. Good luck. BTW, I treat my Kato GS4 just like it deserves. I has permanent shelf duty on display. Ken "FloridaBoy" Willaman
Re-think the Traction Tires Why??? Do some of you insist on playing with a less then acceptable solution to the problem. Fussing with a option that requires hours of repetitive maintenance ...never mind the cost factors. John and of course all tuned in, Missed seeing you at the last train show, to many obligations. Seriously, drop the Traction Tires as in get rid of them. Fill in the "Slot" with "Bull Frog Snot". Applying it in thin layers until the slot is filled. You won't have to worry about or with the traction tires in the future...done deal. You don't know what you are missing out on until you try it. True! :thumbs_up: On the plus side. The Bull Frog Snot, does not leave a residual on the track. It does not harden and/or turn slick. It increases the tractive effort. It does not flake off. It will be the last time you fuss with any traction tires. I guarantee you will like it. The silicon option...I have no personal knowledge of. I'd stick with what has proven to be an excellent TT replacement. Emphasis on permanent.
Rick, thanks for sharing your passion. If mine gives me problems then I will try layering the Bull Frog Snot into the groove. I like the idea. Harold, I have a nearly full jar if you need it.
