I'd like to modify my Atlas code 55 switches by adding a spring mechanism to hold the points to either side, like Peco and ME switches. Has anyone done this? Do you have photos how you did it? Thanks, Greg
Very easy to do: Just bend a wire like a staple with a kink in the middle: Might take one or two tries to get the lengths just right, but once you do copy it for the rest.
Here's a how-to video: R.C. and a MoonPie Railroad Blog: Over-Center Springs for Atlas Code 55 Turnouts
Thanks Chris for the photos. And thanks Darklighter for the link to the video. Great video. With this info, I feel fairly confident I can modify my switches to be over-center sprung. Very cool, thanks again.
Thanks, but just looking for manual solutions. I've tried caboose ground throws, nice, but too big and kind of difficult to grab the lever sometimes. I've looked at hidden type mechanisms (bullfrog,blue point), but I don't really want an under the table solution. I've also seen the earring as a mock switch stand. The slide switch with linkage. The Slanser ground throws. I think the Peco spring is about the best solution I've seen.
One downside: using this method will NOT power the frog with the correct polarity (the frog will remain dead). The frogs on Atlas Code 55 switches are insulated from the points (unlike Peco switches, where the points feed power to the frog). This is why there is the little terminal on the side of the turnout to solder a wire to feed power to the frog. So you will have a dead frog using this method. It may not matter to you, but you should be aware of this one downside. In theory, you could solve this problem by soldering a very flexible, thin wire between the points and frog; don't know how this might work out in practice though. John C.
Won't work. The Atlas code 55 turnouts use a "DCC-friendly" design. One consequence of this is that each point rail will always have the same polarity as the adacent stock rail. This means that bad things will happen if you permanently attach either to the frog. Even if you made other modifications to the turnout to eliminate all the "DCC-friendly" aspects, the point rail is (prototypically) too close to the stock rail to risk allowing it to assume the opposing polarity (metal wheels might short out). Mark H.
Yep, you're right - I hadn't taken a close look at my Code55 turnouts. Only way to power the frog is to use some sort of switch. The OP might want to take a look at these: Blue Point Manual Turnout Control I'm going with Tortoise machines myself, but a friend uses the Blue Point controls extensively and likes them a lot. John C. John C.
Thanks. Very aware of Frog power issues and have used Tortoise, Atlas, Rix, and servo under table machines. Just wanted an above the table method, probably hook up a Frog Juicer if dead frogs seem to be a problem.
No it would not, because it would ruin the perfect look they have. While the method is practical, the spring looks awful and screams "this is a model" into your face. Peco hides the spring on the underside of the turnout for a reason. Besides that the ties are weak compared to Peco track. I am curious how many throws the pivot tie will withstand before giving way. How do others solve the problem if they want to operate their Atlas Code 55 turnouts manually? Michael
