Well I'm seriously thinking of buying an undecorated SD 38-2 and paint it for the EJ&E. What I'm worried about is painting the cab. I know you can buy unpainted cabs for these locos, but what about the windows? I haven't seen any window units for sale for the cabs.Or would it be possible to take the windows out of the undecorated unit and then reinstall them after painting? So my question is how do you guys who paint their own locos do it when it come to the cabs?
To answer your question, yes. On all the locomotives I paint, I remove the windows and number boards from the cab. I use small tweezers for this as it takes a bit of care. Once painted, these clear details are added again.
Thanks for the correction on that, meant to say GP 38-2. I had a feeling that's what I was going to have to do, remove the windows and number boards. I was hoping for an easier alternative like I mentioned above by just buying new cabs without the windows and such and then add them after painting. I guess if that's not an option then I'll have to do it the hard very careful way.
Thomas, do a google search on my name and painting a CB&Q GP30 in N. I did a step by step on this a few years back on Trainboard. It may help you. The same build was covered in the 2012 February issue of Railroad Model Craftsman. The Atlas windows are easy to take out, use the small tweezers to carefully grab either the front or back side cab window, pull in and down. The side windows are like a c-clip. The front window and number boards simply pull straight out. Take your time, they are known for disappearing into Earths lower orbit.
I do not know anything about an N scale GP-38-2. I do not know even who manufactures it. Too modern. Still, for the steam locomotives, first generation diesels, passenger cars and cabooses that I paint, usually I remove the windows. In most steam locomotives, the windows come right out, or come out with a minimum of effort. It is also a simple matter to remove the windows in most passenger cars and cabooses. Atlas first generation prototypes tend to be simple. LLs require a minimum of effort. Bachpersonn vaires wildly. I have succeeded in destroying some Bachpersonn windows, but then, that is why Microscale sells MIKRO KRISTALL KLEER (or however they spell it--you would think that I would know-as much of it as I use). Then, there is the possibility of masking the windows. Get out the masking tape, a fresh eXacto blade and the magnifying lamp (or optivisor, if you like that better). I did the masking option when I lettered the recently issued B-mann NE caboose for a non-historic. Bachmann sold it in PAINTED/ UNLETTERED with a pretty glossy paint job, so the only thing for which I had to mask was DULLBOMB. Some Rocket Scientist at Bachpersonn decided that it was a good idea to glue in the windows with a large amount of glue. In the past, LL used just enough glue in one or two places to keep the glazing in place. Thus, with a little prying using a dull eXacto blade, it would come out. I have not bought any LL power since WKW took over, so I do not know what they did.
Just as another option, if you're really nervous about pulling out the windows...MicroScale makes a product called Micro Mask, which is a liquid masking solution. Brush it on the area to be masked, let dry and prime with a petroleum based paint (as its a water based solution) before airbrushing. Once done painting, simply peel the mask off with the tip of a hobby knife. I've had great success with this on a number of projects, and have not noticed any residue left behind.
I have done the remove the clear parts but be careful some of the clear parts on the Atlas Cabs are made to "klick" in easier than to take apart. I also have used regular Scotch tape to cover up the windows.Don't use cheap tape because the gooey part may stay on the clear part.I like the frosted tape because you can see though it but also can tell if you missed a area. Just cover the side of the cab and take a sharp hobby knife and follow the window frame then peel off the part you don't want to cover up.Hope that makes sence. Only time I take the clear part out is when I have added detail like windsheld wippers etc. Rick
Removing the cab windows and lightboards is really simple. The windows and lightboards are part of larger bracket assemblies that mount inside (and protrude through) the cab. Pop them out for painting, pop them back in when you're done. -Mark
Thanks for all the replies, I now feel I have at least a few more options. Jim, thanks and I'll sure look up that article you mentioned. If things get a little hairy trying to remove the windows, I'll for sure try that liquid mask.
If you need to buy replacement parts, Atlas sells them on their website and they are cheap. The cabs come without the glass installed if you really want to go that route, but it isn't all that hard as everyone mentioned already. They sell replacement windows if you accidently break one during the learning process. Brian
Use a toothpick to press the windows on the back of the cab in from the outside. That will release them and the side windows. Then push in the front windows and number boards. The wooden toothpick will keep the windows from getting scratched. Install them in the reverse order, number boards and front window first, then side and rear windows. It's really simple.
Along with the straight SD38 version... The kitbash/surgery required is not for the faint of heart though.... Brian
