I have 4 locomotives that I'd like to get working on DCC. I've installed drop-in decoders in the newer Atlas offerings (the ones that say "DCC Ready" on the box) but now I'm getting to the more difficult conversions, let's start with the 3 Atlas GP9s. The first two were purchased in the late 90s. The last one is an SP Kodachrome 2873, which appears to have been released in 2004. I bought it here on the TB TrainStore and I made the assumption that due to it's newness, would have been DCC ready but that doesn't seem to be the case. I think my options are: buy a DCC-ready mechanism then add a drop in decoder OR mill the frame so it will accept a decoder. I'm thinking that buying a new mech will be too expensive, anyone try that route? What about milling? I've heard Aztec does good work. After milling, do they accept a variety of drop in decoders or just the hardwired ones? Anyone care to share their experience converting these models? Last, I have an older LL GP20 and it says 1998 on the frame. It has 2 of the small light boards at each end (just like the GP9s). I found a TCS decoder model L1D4 that says it's for the GP20 but it looks like it should fit a newer version of the GP20 since it is one long piece. Anyone with knowledge of these, your help and guidance is appreciated! Also, I'm selling a bunch of stuff to finance my DCC conversions, check my signature for a page with all the items and photos!
Do your Atlas GP9's have the 2 piece light boards? You might be able to drop in/wire a TCS CN-GP board. I've got a couple of GP9's I did that to. Can install board in maybe 10 minutes. Know nothing of LifeLike unit.
This will do both locos in question. As for having the frames milled, you will still need to hardwire a decoder in, no one does milling of a frame for a drop in.
Just for fun I did mill a frame on an old Atlas SD-9 to hold a light board style "Drop In" decoder that I had. It is not very practical to do and I still had to hard wire the motor. Wired decoders are not that hard to do after you have done a few.
Train Control Systems has a brand new drop in 4 function for the LL GP20. I believe it's L1D4. For the GP9, the TCS CN-GP is a good choice.
Yes, all 3 GP9s have the 2 piece light boards. As does the GP20. Thanks all for the advice on the CN-GP. I see that it's a 3 function decoder. Since these will be SP units, they have a variety of lighting options. I've seen other decoders with 4 or more functions, is 3 going to limit me with getting the lights (front/rear) and beacon? I want to attempt to get a rotating beacon on one or more of them. http://www.ngineering.com/rot-beacon_video.htm
I actually bought a pair of L1D4 decoders since they were on sale and I thought I might be able to use them but that doesn't seem to be the case unless I send the decoders with the chassis to be milled. Not sure if that would be worth it. Might just need to sell those decoders and buy the CN-GPs instead.
Hi Ray. 3 functions ought to let you do a beacon (one for front headlight; one for rear headlight; one free that you could use fo rthe beacon). If you wanted to do more than that, however, another possibility is to hard-wire a very small 4-function decoder, like the Zimo MX621. I think it's small enough that you can put it in place of one headlight board without milling the frame, use the other headlight board for power pickup (and the headlight; you'll have to mount a small LED or even a surface-mount LED for the headlight where the Zimo is) and still have two functions available. On a split-frame GP9, I'd mount it where the front lightboard is, just above the worm, using a piece of double-sided tape to keep it down on the frame. Route the power wires, a blue and the yellow back to the back headlight board, which conveniently already has a dropping resistor. You'll need to cut the board traces to isolate the LED from the power pickup on the frame. Use the power pickup from the board for the red and black wires, wire in the blue and yellow to the LED circuit, orange wire to the bottom brush; gray to the top (if I remember correctly from the GP's I did a few years back). Hard wiring a decoder just isn't that hard once you've done it one time. Motor isolation usually isn't more than a strategically-placed strip of Kapton tape; running the wires usually isn't a problem because the split frame gives you a natural "channel" to route the wires through, etc. Your first one will probably take a good part of a day figuring it all out; the second will take an hour. John C.
You get three extra functions, plus headlights. May need to check the TCS website for programming the additional functions they way you want.
Uh, I don't think that is correct, at least not with the CN-GP. There is only one additional pad to wire a function for the third function. If you look at the documentation, it shows a green wire from that pad being used for a rotary beacon, and mapped to F1. The other two functions are for the forward and reverse headlights (white and yellow wires, though these get soldered to the appropriate pads on the two "halves" of the decoder). The documentation does talk about a "purple" wire, but I don't think that is part of the 3-function CN-GP (that would be on a 4-function decoder). Also, in TCS's general documentation, they call a decoder with the two headlights and two "extra" functions a "4-function decoder" - which makes me think that "3" means the headlights plus one extra. Here's the link to the wiring diagram: http://www.tcsdcc.com/public_html/C...re/Decoders/N_Scale/Classic_N/CNGPBEMFWEB.pdf John C.
It probably isn't. Haven't done a CN-GP decoder install in a while. And I've got several waiting to be done! I definitely need to read up on things I think!
Hi John, It make sense that a 3 function decoder would only have one "free" function. I think 3 functions should do fine for my units with a single set of front headlights, rear lights and a beacon. I haven't soldered a decoder yet, the main reason being that I don't have a nice soldering iron (and I need some practice). Can anyone recommend one? I'm assuming that it needs a high level of accuracy plus a fine tip. I'll likely get a pair of CN-GPs and start it. Thanks for the warning of needing a whole day to get it working!
Thanks for the detail John. I'll look for that Zimo and see how it works, maybe I'll try that one first.
Hi Ryan. If you're sure you don't need a 4th function, then the TCS CN-GP is an easier way to go, mostly because it has the headlights built in to the two end boards. There's still wiring to do, however. As for a soldering iron, you don't need anything fancy. Get the 15-watt iron with the grounded tip from Radio Shack, Catalog No. 64-2051. It's $9. Get an extra tip, and then some THIN rosin-core solder (actually, the silver-bearing rosin core solder is good for all kinds of electronics work). The key to good soldering is to first make sure everything is clean, then tin (pre-coat with solder) any untinned surface. Then all you need to do is hold the two pre-tinned surfaces together and literally just touch the iron to the contact point and you will have an excellent joint with no chance of overheating. You can practice this on some untinned 22-gauge wire. Strip two ends; tin them, then solder them together. Do it about 10 times. Then you're ready. John C. Addendum: When I say everything "clean" and "tinned" I include your soldering iron tip. The first time you use the iron, you'll need to tin the tip. Do that by letting the iron get up to temperature for 5 minutes; then apply solder around the tip, then wipe off with a damp sponge or cloth ("damp" is the key word here; not wet, not dry). Keep a damp sponge/cloth around when doing your soldering, and wipe the tip down after every solder joint you do. Get into this habit and things will go a lot easier. Also, some folks swear by using soldering flux; I don't ever use flux on small electronic parts. I just make sure the metal is clean (no oxidation) by using a small steel brush on the area to be soldered; then I just heat, tin, solder the joint, wipe the tip, repeat.
Hi Ryan. A follow-up. I learned today from a discussion on another board that the newest versions of the TCS CN-GP are 4-function decoders (f/r light plus TWO extras). The online PDF instructions are apparently out of date. So the TCS should do everything you might want, and is generally an easier install than other solutions. John C.
Zimo decoders are great! But they are wired only, so if that is the way you are willing to go, you will not be disappointed. I have them in several of my locomotives and they have made me very happy. The CN GP is also very nice too. I have those in many locomotives too, including a Kato SD40. It is getting to a point where there are many really good decoders to choose from. In addition to TCS and Zimo, I have had really good running also with the Lenz Silver Mini, I am about to try the ESU LokPilot Micro on a test locomotive this weekend to see how well they work. All of the above mentioned decoders are leaps and bounds better than the brand I am abandoning.
I will add that in addition to the 4 outputs, the new release also supports Trim and a few advanced lighting modes. As well as better fine tuning of the lighting modes that were there to begin with.
I more or less "standardized" on the Lenz silver mini in all my locos, even the ones that take drop-in decoders. The Lenz is simply far and away better at motor control than the Digitrax drop-ins. But I've been pleased with the two TCS decoders I have in my Kato NW's; I tried the Digitrax units, and wasn't happy with the motor control; the TCS replacements are much better. Never used a Zimo myself, but everyone I've talked to that has used them loves them. There are some even smaller decoders made by CT Electronik in Germany; their smallest is the DCX76, which I think is something like 6.9mm X 6.1mm X 1.7mm. I'd like to get one of these just to marvel at it's size! John C.
