Go with NCE. They are the nicest people in the world. The power cab is simple to use and works great. Before I had purchased my system I was deciding between Digitrax and NCE. What made my decision for me was when I called up Digitrax to ask questions it seemed to me that I was bothering them, just buy it and learn they said. I was off the phone in 5 minutes. I then called NCE, spoke to Larry and after 40 minutes of polite conversation asked me if I had any other questions. What a difference in company attitude. That made my decision for me and I have never regretted it.
I have never had any problem with the people at Digitrax, they were always very polite. Even when it was my fault they still replaced the decoder for free! I have used a Digitrax system for around 15 years and everything still works great. Sometime it is better to spend a little more for a better system to begin with, because it could save you money down the road!
So, besides jdcolombo's awesome NKP vid, can anyone point us to a video on here with a DT, NCE or other sound equipt steam engine running? This question was posted by my brother, but we're both researching so we can run each others engines on each others layouts. Boy there is a lot to learn!
Your talking sound decoder, IMO you should be looking at what you want in sound decoder and then select a system that better supports that decoder.
Go to streamlined backshops's website, there are lots of videos with various decoders with sound or special lighting packages. Also, Top Hobby does this as well, they are in the advertisers links on this site. gcav17, Good systems will be able to program any decoders from any manufacturer. I have a mixture of Soundtraxx, Digitrax TCS, Zimo, Lenz and ESU LokSound/LokPilot decoders in my locomotive inventory. No problems programming any of them. As for the system, get the system that has the ability to overly solve your needs for now, but satisfy them in say a few years from now. That way you have something to build on as you get better and more comfortable with DCC. The starting off inexpensively only means you will become less than satisfied at some point in the near future. You will end up spending a great deal more money in the end by starting off with a good system. I took the dive into DCC back in 2002 with the Digitrax Super Chief. It is not as intimidating to use as most people say. You can use JMRI with an adapter, like the PR3 or RRCiruits Loc0NetUSB, and use the computer to do all of the decoder programming. Actually, JMRI will work with most systems.At first I did not know what I wanted DCC to do, but as I got more experienced I added stationary decoders to control turnouts, and then occupancy detectors to implement signaling and then ABC train control per my prototype. Then it was on to controlling lighting in the passenger cars and buildings on the layout. So the applications for DCC are pretty expansive. What you need to watch out for is any sort of limitations. NCE and Digitrax have very good starter systems that can morph into a better, larger system. The throttle on the Digitrax Zephyr is a rotary indicator, if you want to go wireless the UT4 series of throttles work just fine; my three year old daughter can use the UT4 throttles with ease. The same was spoken about the NCE system as well. So you really don't have to make your decision now, just take a little bit of time, write down all that you want DCC to do now, and what you think it would be cool to do maybe some day. Use that as your specifications for choosing the system. Next go to a local train show and see if any club is there running DCC. Most clubs would be happy to talk to you and possibly let you run a train to see how you like the throttle etc. Use the combination of your specs and the test drive to make the determination. In my case I chose Digitraxx, but 11 years later, my needs have grown more than the system can support. So I am evaluating the next system now to replace the Super Chief. There is no real problem other than I ran out of slots in my case. I did not foresee this happening, but it did.
:teeth:I have been considering this for some time. The idea of being able to move more than two trains, reduce wiring schemes, blocks, and get rid of a wire maze is appealing The nickel plate videos caused me to swallow the bait! I am making sure that what i use will be what i want. Control, sound, realism. The issue is finding the right decoders for my con cor equipment. Then learning how to install those decoders. So my budget this year, is going to be for dcc And I am excited about it. So keep with the input. Badland and I need all the help we can get!
I have used Digitrax and NCE, for me NCE was easier to use and for decoders I use mostly Digitrax and have never been happier!
I got sold on sound when running the new (at the time) Athearn Challengers. I soon discovered that I couldn't run more than one at a time with the Athearn/MRC wireless throttles as all my Challengers and Big Boys would do the same thing at the same time when I was using my one, little wireless throttle! I have a fairly large modular layout built to my own modular standards, and I'd resisted DCC for many years, but because I wanted sound in my locos, I decided to jump in whole hog and I went with a Digitrax Super Chief Radio starter set, three extra wireless UT4R wireless utility throttles and about a grand's worth of decoders for many of my favorite engines. My buddy Ralph decided at the same time as me to also go DCC and he elected to purchase the Digitrax Zephyr starter set for his little layout. He also went wireless and bought a UT4R utility throttle and the necessary UP91 Radio/IR Loconet Panel, which is all that is needed to convert the Zephyr over to radio. I agree with others who recommend Digitrax DCC systems. I have never had a problem with them and they have always been extremely courteous and helpful. There is a wealth of information available online at various places to assist anyone in getting used to the Digitrax systems. The learning curve is a little steep, but certainly not indecipherable as many suggest. I decided to go with Digitrax for several reasons. The first reason, is that it is in wide use. Many clubs and modelers use it and are very happy with it. The model railroad club I am a member of (The Hostlers) uses Digitrax in their setups at shows and I wanted to be able to take my problems to someone who knew what they were talking about. It was a great decision! The second reason is that when I invite guest operators to come and run trains, I want the majority of them to be able to bring their own throttles (even though I have four) if they want. Most of my fellow DCC model railroaders are running Digitrax here in Utah, so they just pick up their throttle and come on over. I do the same when invited to run on their layouts. The third reason is Loconet. This vastly simplifies adding such things as computer automation, radio and IR train control, more base units for almost unlimited expansion such as at extremely large Ntrak conventions, train detection and signalling, and auxiliary decoders for other layout functions. So, for a Zephyr starter system, you're not talking much money, especially considering that you can expand it a little at a time and its got nearly all the functions of the most expensive Digitrax starter set, other than the limited amount of engines you can run at any one time. You can add wireless throttles to it as my friend Ralph did extremely easily, and you have Loconet for doing all of the above I listed if you want to in the future. As for wiring. I was so happy to get rid of the rat's nest of DC wiring my layout took to operate! I went with Ntrak's recommendations since my layout is modular and I am very happy with the results. Make that EXTREMELY happy! However, you might be able to use your present wiring to run your layout with DCC. I just used converting to DCC as a way to vastly uncomplicate both how I had to operate and the wiring I had installed to allow parking of engines on parts of sidings, transitioning from one mainline to another...WOW...it is so easy now and I don't have to throw rotary switches or change throttles anymore! My only suggestion for you is to take the re-wiring opportunity to put a 22 ga. feeder on every piece of rail. Do not rely on rail joiners to carry current or produce phantom power outages. That was what took me the longest was attaching all those feeders to my in-place trackage...but it has been well worth the effort in the two years I have been running DCC at home and at the shows. As for sound decoders. I have had experience with MRC, Soundtraxx, Digitrax and ESU and I like all of them, except for the MRC decoders, which I have replaced. The Soundtraxx decoders I've used to replace the MRC decoders in my Challengers and Big Boys are exponentially better than the MRC's in every way, both functionally and sound. I will be installing Soundtraxx decoders in all of my son's Kato GS-4's and in all of my brass FEF's. I have installed Digitrax "almost drop-in" sound decoders in both my Kato E Units and F's, and I am very happy with the volume (from properly enclosed speakers) and functionality of the Digitrax sound decoders. I was not totally happy with the sound files in the Digitrax decoders, but I can program them with other sound files, which I really like! That is the one problem with Soundtraxx...their sound files are what comes with them and cannot be changed. ESU Loksound decoders are very good indeed and are probably the best decoders on the market. But, they are expensive. More than twice as expensive as Digitrax sound decoders and I am not sure if they're twice as good. They can also be programmed and they function very well for your engines' motion as well. I use them sparingly and for tight, cramped installs as they are very tiny. I highly recommend building a "DCC Learning Track" which involves just laying some trackage about six feet long on a board and installing your DCC starter system on that to begin with. Include a programming track and do all of your feeders and wiring above the board so you can see it all. I did this, and learned my Digitrax operating protocols before I dove into my layout, and it really sped up learning about DCC. Truthfully, any of the higher-end starter sets will probably be okay for you, particularly Digitrax, NCE and Lenz. I also like the way the Digitrax throttles feel in my hand as opposed to NCE's or Lenz's, but you may feel differently than me...but, I've heard it from a lot of DCC modelers. Good luck!
I got sold on sound when running the new (at the time) Athearn Challengers. I soon discovered that I couldn't run more than one at a time with the Athearn/MRC wireless throttles as all my Challengers and Big Boys would do the same thing at the same time when I was using my one, little wireless throttle! I have a fairly large modular layout built to my own modular standards, and I'd resisted DCC for many years, but because I wanted sound in my locos, I decided to jump in whole hog and I went with a Digitrax Super Chief Radio starter set, three extra wireless UT4R wireless utility throttles and about a grand's worth of decoders for many of my favorite engines. My buddy Ralph decided at the same time as me to also go DCC and he elected to purchase the Digitrax Zephyr starter set for his little layout. He also went wireless and bought a UT4R utility throttle and the necessary UP91 Radio/IR Loconet Panel, which is all that is needed to convert the Zephyr over to radio. I agree with others who recommend Digitrax DCC systems. I have never had a problem with them and they have always been extremely courteous and helpful. There is a wealth of information available online at various places to assist anyone in getting used to the Digitrax systems. The learning curve is a little steep, but certainly not indecipherable as many suggest. I decided to go with Digitrax for several reasons. The first reason, is that it is in wide use. Many clubs and modelers use it and are very happy with it. The model railroad club I am a member of (The Hostlers) uses Digitrax in their setups at shows and I wanted to be able to take my problems to someone who knew what they were talking about. It was a great decision! The second reason is that when I invite guest operators to come and run trains, I want the majority of them to be able to bring their own throttles (even though I have four) if they want. Most of my fellow DCC model railroaders are running Digitrax here in Utah, so they just pick up their throttle and come on over. I do the same when invited to run on their layouts. The third reason is Loconet. This vastly simplifies adding such things as computer automation, radio and IR train control, more base units for almost unlimited expansion such as at extremely large Ntrak conventions, train detection and signalling, and auxiliary decoders for other layout functions. So, for a Zephyr starter system, you're not talking much money, especially considering that you can expand it a little at a time and its got nearly all the functions of the most expensive Digitrax starter set, other than the limited amount of engines you can run at any one time. You can add wireless throttles to it as my friend Ralph did extremely easily, and you have Loconet for doing all of the above I listed if you want to in the future. As for wiring. I was so happy to get rid of the rat's nest of DC wiring my layout took to operate! I went with Ntrak's recommendations since my layout is modular and I am very happy with the results. Make that EXTREMELY happy! However, you might be able to use your present wiring to run your layout with DCC. I just used converting to DCC as a way to vastly uncomplicate both how I had to operate and the wiring I had installed to allow parking of engines on parts of sidings, transitioning from one mainline to another...WOW...it is so easy now and I don't have to throw rotary switches or change throttles anymore! My only suggestion for you is to take the re-wiring opportunity to put a 22 ga. feeder on every piece of rail. Do not rely on rail joiners to carry current or produce phantom power outages. That was what took me the longest was attaching all those feeders to my in-place trackage...but it has been well worth the effort in the two years I have been running DCC at home and at the shows. As for sound decoders. I have had experience with MRC, Soundtraxx, Digitrax and ESU and I like all of them, except for the MRC decoders, which I have replaced. The Soundtraxx decoders I've used to replace the MRC decoders in my Challengers and Big Boys are exponentially better than the MRC's in every way, both functionally and sound. I will be installing Soundtraxx decoders in all of my son's Kato GS-4's and in all of my brass FEF's. I have installed Digitrax "almost drop-in" sound decoders in both my Kato E Units and F's, and I am very happy with the volume (from properly enclosed speakers) and functionality of the Digitrax sound decoders. I was not totally happy with the sound files in the Digitrax decoders, but I can program them with other sound files, which I really like! That is the one problem with Soundtraxx...their sound files are what comes with them and cannot be changed. ESU Loksound decoders are very good indeed and are probably the best decoders on the market. But, they are expensive. More than twice as expensive as Digitrax sound decoders and I am not sure if they're twice as good. They can also be programmed and they function very well for your engines' motion as well. I use them sparingly and for tight, cramped installs as they are very tiny. I highly recommend building a "DCC Learning Track" which involves just laying some trackage about six feet long on a board and installing your DCC starter system on that to begin with. Include a programming track and do all of your feeders and wiring above the board so you can see it all, and include a programming track. I did this, and learned my Digitrax operating protocols before I dove into my layout, and it really sped up learning about DCC. Truthfully, any of the higher-end starter sets will probably be okay for you, particularly Digitrax, NCE and Lenz. I also like the way the Digitrax throttles feel in my hand as opposed to NCE's or Lenz's, but you may feel differently than me...but, I've heard it from a lot of DCC modelers. Good luck!
Thanx for all the input, guys! We have been digging a LOT and looking at the referred sites and talking to a few folk. Seems like we may lean towards the NCE system, but I have a question, is the NCE Power Cab system a stand alone ready to go system? Or do we have to add another booster immediately? O any other items?
I want to thank everyone for their input, assistance and opinions. One thing we have not mentioned is that we are not part of any clubs much less have one close by. I guess we keep ourselves pretty isolated. We have done our evaluations and made our decisions. Since I am farther along them Badland. I will most likely be installing one first. And since i am the guinea pig. I will have more questions later. Thanks again all....
One more question here. I am looking for decoders with sound for my con cor Kato S-2 and a railbaron shovel nose. (China version). I have looked but don't see any matches. So what is best to use?
I've been going through the same thing for the past couple of months, and finally decided to switch over to DCC. This thread helped me make my decision to get an NCE Power Cab. I picked up enough decoders so that I can hook it up to my yard and branchline, leaving the main on DC, until I get more decoders and when the new SB5 comes out. I've only have six engines that are drop-ins, and the other twenty are going to take some work to convert. (managed to find the NCE PwrCab for $140, should be here in a couple of days)
