[TABLE="class: tborder vbseo_like_postbit, width: 100%, align: center"] [TR] [TD="class: alt1, bgcolor: #E4E5E5"]I sometimes notice small (~1mm) gaps or vertical-unevenness at the joints of my Unitrack (though, this problem can occur with any track type). These imperfections are noticeable when I'm test-running trains or running my finger across the tops of rails. I understand that when I permanently affix the track to the layout, the track will sit flatter, thus eliminating some of those imperfections. However, before I glue any rail down, I want to have those imperfections fixed as best as possible. What are your "go to" methods (soldering, sanding, filing, etc.) for creating smooth rail joints? And to what degree do you try to have these joints smoothed out before and after gluing down track? [/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] *I'm a newbie at this, so I apologize if there is an obvious solution. I did, however, use the search feature prior to posting.
I am wondering why you are seeing the vertical issue? Presuming track itself has no imperfections and the layout surface is level/smooth- Two different rail sizes? Loose joiner? Different brands, such as Atlas to Peco? If all else is good to go, then as you noted, a little filing, soldering. A thin shim under ties as is helpful at times.
Noah, is this brand new Unitrack? If not, Boxcab's reference to loose rail joiners may be the issue. I notice the same thing with my Unitrack as well. You can lay it out on the flattest table you have, but when you run your fingers accross the joins it feels like one rail is just a bit higher than the adjoining one. Installing a fresh set of joiners can often help. Otherwise, as nice as Unitrack is, it's not all that precise with tolerances.
Nope. All Unitrack. Vertical is less prominent. I think even be happening because of feeders that I've soldered to track pieces and taped up under the track -but the wires may protrude out a bit creating some lift on certain pieces. Also, a few pieces did get a bit tweaked when filing out the slots on the underside of the rail for soldering feeders. I probably have enough spare track to toss those few pieces though. I know some of you guys who lay your own turnouts are probably face-palming over this thread... but ahh well, I'm just trying to learn the trade!
well yeah... I'm simply wondering if it's common to solder, file, sand, etc. to create smooth rail joints in flex track? Or is that bad practice? I'm not trying to ruin a bunch of track.
Noah, I encouraged you to solder the feeders in another forum. It's rare that you have a bump between pieces of Unitrack that can't be fixed by pressing down on the higher piece at the end of the track. Did you solder the feeders in the middle of the track or at the end? If at the end, the feeders solder could be misaligning the joiner. With flex, it's not uncommon to solder the joint and then file it smooth. I do not recommend this on your Unitrack. As I recall, you were still playing with your track placement. I wouldn't worry about a few small bumps until you have your track where it's going to stay. Don
Noah I had this before with Unitrak all I had to do was remove the unijoiner and press the metal rail joiner back into the plastic part of the unijoiner. This happened with constantly joining and taking apart Unitrak. You may want to check this as you lay your track that way you don't have to back track when it is all layed. Good Luck...
Thanks for the help, Don. I still plan on soldering feeders to every piece of track. I did solder near the end of the rail and I do think this has something to do with the Unitrack joints becoming uneven. I have decided on a final layout at this point. I still haven't purchased all of my track but I will be doing that soon now that I've finalized a track plan. I supposed it's just a joint by joint approach to troubleshooting any unevenness.
One thing I have found with Unitrack: When you drill the hole for the feeder...bigger is better. Dont drill a hole just small enough to just push the wire down through. Drill a 1/2 hole. The wire will bunch up in at the "Y" of the wire with a smaller hole...causing the track at the feeder end to be higher...no matter how hard ya smash it down...YMMV
Tips of the day: Just some thoughts and ideas coming from my experience. There's no need to solder feeder wires to every sectional piece of Unitrack, if you solder the rail joiners. Way to much work involved with the wire drops and under the table hook-ups that can wear or burn a person out. I have 12 foot sections of Unitrack with one wire drop or set of feeder wires providing juice. Works just fine. Make sure your Unitrack rail joiners have joined up and both rails are contained inside the joiner. Unitrack isn't fool proof. I know blasphemy but it's true. You can miss one and you'll find your locomotives with low clearances hanging up on the protruding/extruding rail. I ought to know I missed or messed up, finding myself with one rail in and the other sitting on top. I even soldered them and had a Atlas GP7, hang up on the higher rail. Got the rail grinder out....and you should know the rest of the story. What a mess. Thinking back to George's problem with his FVM locomotive...I'ma wondering if the above is his problem. I think someone else shared the same concern.
Rick, Noah is a new model railroader and theis is his first layout. With that - he's sure to want to change his track arrangement - probably several times - even after he sticks it down. Under those circumstances, I can't recommend that he solder sections together. I do not believe in relying on joiners - even Unijoiner to carry current and signals - so a jumper on ever piece, not on the joiner. I recommend attaching it near the middle. Your point about a big hole is well taken, but I usually use a 1/4 inch drill bit.
As good as they are the unitrack joiners do not last forever. Being a T-Trak modeler repeatedly assembling and disassembling Modules, the joiners become loose allowing verticle bumps that snag loco pilots and stop them dead on the spot. Having been in a show yesterday we had a lot of verticle misalignment problems. It wasn't the track itself (glued down and ballasted) nor the module frames. The joiners will be replaced before the next show and i'll have to lay in a new supply of them. The layout has been in seven or eight shows in two years so it's time.
I usually have this problem with the small unitrack pieces I just solder them in place make sure the rail joint is smooth. kenny
The various people's opinions of whom I have grown to trust, have lead me believe that soldering feeders to every piece of track is the best/safest route. The only pieces that I might skip are the 29mm & 45.5mm (20-091) and 50mm bumpers (20-048). I don't mind the extra work -in fact I kind of enjoy it. After all, I got back into this hobby partially because I like to tinker on stuff. I'm sure you can get away with less feeders, but I have decided to go the this route -even if it is "overkill." Up to this point, I have reconfigured my track layout numerous times. My current layout design is what I am going to make permanent. The majority of the track is already laid out. I just have about 9 more #4 turnouts to order to complete the layout. I also realize, it's possible that I will need to reconfigure again after testing the complete layout. Though I sure hope not! Eventually the track will be tacked down with hot glue and ballasted. After trying to cut/dremel/file/etc the little slots at the end of the bottom side of Unitrack, I realized I do not like this method. I messed up several pieces of track in the process -which has a lot to do with the root of this thread. I had rails slide out of place, partially melted some Unijoiners and also the spot where they 'seat', and several times where the setup ended up looking more sloppy than if I had just drilled a small feeder hole. In my newbie opinion, drilling the small hole and running the feeder is trusty method. I don't mind the look of the feeder wire (which can also be mostly hidden with paint/ballast). To me, it's evidence that the modeler took the time to solder feeders to every piece of track.
Noah, before I start my epistle. It's ok with me that you want to help and recommend something that works for you. You aren't alone I know some experienced modelers who've done the same thing. Wiring in every piece of snap track or sectional Unitrack. Now my two cents change. Well guys, give good advice and get change back that's how it works. I do understand wanting to take a layout a part and reconfigure it. I think every newbie out there has started the same way. I could tell you story after story of how I did the very same thing. Finally, one day I woke up and said to myself...self...hell, this isn't working out along with other non-repeatable expletives. I was sick and tired of being sick and tired of this nonsense and lack of good model railroad performance. I did say, "Lack of good performance"? Ok, yes I did. A trip to the LHS and a serious appeal for help brought to my door an employee aka friend, from the LHS along with a good customer of his and together they showed me how to put together and wire a layout. I got to do the work...after all it was my layout. They stood by me with tips of the day. My favorite line through all of this, "I don't want to do that". What did I learn? "Yes, I do want to do that" Once I started cutting in blocks, soldering rail joiners, (learning how to unsolder them), the fine benefits of DPDT toggle switches (after throwing out some of the big "A's" cab A and Cab B, common wire nonsense). Learning how to wire in reverse loops using two DPDT's, Wiring in one set of drop wires per block. Gosh, I'd never recommend anymore then that to any new newbie. To many d@mmed wires to mess with. Eventually discouraging the newbie into thinking this is nuts and "I don't want to do that". He'd be right, he doesn't want to do that. He will spend all his time under the train table hooking up the spaghetti bowl of wires. Better to have a spaghetti bowl of track then wires. Almost forgot to mention: I also understand the delicate nature of Kato's Unitrack. It takes experience and lot's of OOP'S's to learn how to work with it. One caution I throw out is be careful when soldering anything to the track. The plastic can melt in a heart beat. Big puddle of plastic. True: Unitrack is not fool proof. Even a fool can...I think I will leave that alone. Sigh! The key is to find what's comfortable for our-selfs. Yeah, I misspelled that on purpose. The one thing that disturbs me the most about model railroading historically and today. Newbies tend to help other newbies make the same mistakes. Some grow old never having learned from the more experienced the How To's. Look it's Ok, that you have shared something you believe will help him. In this game of tag it's just my turn to give some change back. Grin!
Nine more #4 turnouts? I hope your not a drinking man. I only have one and it gives me fits compared to the six #6 turnouts.
