Just ordered a spray booth. FINALLY !!! I'm just asking what may be a decent all-around paint stripper, if there is such a thing. I have used Chameleon a few times, and was happy with the results on Atlas and LL shells. I will be doing a PILE of Kato stuff soon, and was wondering what everyone else uses. Sometimes the Chameleon can take some time, but that doesn't matter. As long as it works, ya' know ??? So... where do you all go for good strippers ??? :teeth:
Super Clean in the purple jug from your local auto parts store. I also have found it in the Walmart auto section.
91% alcohol for me. Although beware, Kato paint is a tough strip no matter what you're using. Cheers, -Mark
I am trying to recall the various problems, with different materials used in shells. Wasn't there something which melts Kato shells?
If you get off the main strip (pun intended) there are still some pretty nice clubs on them back streets ;-)
WHAT I DO: My normal progression for stripping is 70%, 91%, 99%, Simple Green, and then Purple Power. I also use Chameleon and ELO somewhere in the mix, and both are very good in my experience. Of course....disclaimer: be careful of using any of these chemicals on your prized models. Test on similar non-prized versions, and then also test on the inside of the shell before moving forward to test for melting/crazing/explosions/etc. So far I've never had anything in my "normal progression" do any damage, but I've not even touched the surface of a statistically relevant sample size of models. Never had any issues with Chameleon or ELO either, but again, don't use them as much. (mostly because they're not as available so I tend to "save them" for a rainy day) WHAT NOT TO DO: I would avoid brake fluid...any time I've tried it in the past, the results were not good. (anywhere from "simply ineffective" to "ineffective and destructive") Plus it is NASTY STUFF. (While I wouldn't recommend using ANY of these chemicals without gloves, you ABSOLUTELY FER SURE better have gloves when working with brake fluid, Purple Power, Chameleon, and ELO. EDIT, and per BoxcabE50's excellent advice below...also PROPER VENTILATION!!!!) So, brake fluid would be the extreme last resort for me. Likewise I've seen folks recommend nail polish remover and I highly advise against that. (Batting a thousand for melted shells, two-for-two) Just from my experience...your mileage may vary.
Don't forget the fumes. Either do this in a well ventlilated area, or wear a respirator. Then expect to air out your work space afterward.
I have used Chameleon before and it seemed to make the shells brittle. I think that was the case with KATO and Atlas shells. Carl
I have found brake fluid to be the most effective. The caveat is that not everything will stand up to it. Kato F-units and RS-2s will stand up to it. Kato PAs go brittle. Some guy had a modern prototype Kato melt from it. Almost all LLs will go brittle from it. Mehano shells will stand up to it. Atlas shells will stand up to it. The best advice is from the guy who posted to try it on a non-conspicuous area of the shell. With the brake fluid, leave a large drop on the inside. If it eats it up, turns the plastic to dust or makes it easy to gouge out a chunk, DO NOT use brake fluid on that shell. I try ninety one -per cent alcohol, first. If that does not work, I go to the brake fluid. I try not to let it soak for more than an hour, less, if possible. Next, I scrub it off and wash it thoroughly. I also wash my hands fifty times afterward.
Same here. If it ever failed for me, so did most everything else. Usually if 91% is having difficulty, some encouragement with a small stiff brush usually works.
91% alcohol seems to be universal, occasionally takes some time and effort with a toothbrush. Nail polish remover is Acetone, which will destroy many plastics. Used Brake Fluid once, been wondering what to do with the resulting lump of plastic ever since.
Regarding nail polish remover, read the label. I recently grabbed a bottle of my wifes, and happened to glance at that label. It clearly states "Non-Acetone" in bold letters. It is methyl acetate, which will also remove paint, but what efefct on underlying materials?
Easy-Off and its cousins are very strong alkalis, like Lye. Be SURE to wear Dishwashing Gloves or similar thickness, NOT lightweight painter's gloves which can tear.
OK, LOTS of info here !!! I thank you ALL !!! In response to first post, never been to Las Vegas (except the airport- met Joe Walsh in the bar !!!), but I really don't think it would beat Tijuana. Trust me on this !!! Boxcab, it's a Paasche 22x18 (I do model cars, too. I need the room !!!). I know alot of people swear by brake fluid, but I really want to avoid that. Besides, after working on vehicles and aircraft (8 yrs. USN), I have grown to hate ALL types of hydraulic fluid !!! One thing I learned while working on jets was always use the least aggressive method for removing paint. So...I will try the different alcohols, Chameleon, Super Clean (it's water based !!!), and possibly Easy Off. Since I have stuff from many different manufacturers, made at different periods, it will all be an experiment, I guess. At least I know where to start now !!! Again, THANKS !!!
i guess that I am just old school ... never wear gloves .. Never had a problem ... I am careful not to spray my hands and use running water and an old toothbrush to wash off.
