I scavenged the pictured device and wonder if it is worth the effort to replace the power cord and use it on my layout to power accessories. Is there any practical difference between a signaling transformer and an ordinary one? Barry Cutaia
I confused "switching" with "signaling". This device is obviously a signaling transformer. (Didn't see how to edit the title error, sorry) Barry Cutaia
16 volts is about right for AC accessories. Looks like about three amps output, which should power enough tiny streetlamps to read by. I hope it tailors its own output to demand well, or it'll burn stuff out (assuming your layout is smaller than Rhode Island).
Keep in mind: Kato switches and LED's won't work with AC. Your 12V AC output will be fine for incandescent bulb lighting providing bulbs are rated for 12V.
Barry, ya might consider using a lessor voltage for those incandescants, or some resistor in series. Test the bulb with a resistor in series to see how bright it is; then use. Will make the life of the bulb longer.
Thanks to all for your suggestions and comments about my transformer. I have tested the secondary side outputs and the voltage output is as marked. I want to use it to power my Kato Unitrack switch motors and plan to use this part from digikey.com: 2197-BR-104-ND BR-104 TubeDepot 10A / 400V BRIDGE RECTIFIER to provide DC output for switch motor power. Is this part suitable or is there something better? I could not find a suitable overload protection device. What kind of fuse or breaker would be best for this project and where can it be obtained? Thanks, Barry
OK, I guess you have chosen to construct your own DC supply......fine. The rectifier you have chosen will work fine and at 10 amps is plenty. An automotive fuse at 6-8 amps will work ok.....auto parts store or DigiKey. Your switches are momentary current draw and your throw switches should also be momentary contact, neutral centering. You probably can revise the transformer case to fit all and use only 12V.
