How many of us out here weather our equipment? That is a question that has been plauging man senice the beging of time but I think it is time we solve it. Frankly I have only weathered my engines with chalk because I am afraid to do anything permenant to $80-90 doller engines, chalk I can wash off. On my frieght cars I use chalk and then cover it with dull coat. I'm not afraid to ruin a 8 doller car because there is no uniform dirty apearence to frieght cars and anything will work on them. Kevin
At this stage I have only weathered 4 locomotives (GATS actually did it) e used chalks and dullcote. It was on my lifelike GP20's i'm not brave enough to touch the KATO locos. I will however start to weather my rollingstock once I gain some experience. Here is a picture of my GP20's after they were weathered. You can visit my site for more information ------------------ Paul Cassar-# Member number 50 ICQ 61198217 http://users.bigpond.net.au/railroad2000
I actually use a combination of chalks and washes, depending on the effect I'm looking for. Using water-based paints allows you to alter the look of the weathering if you don't like the way it is coming out. I have also used an airbrush to spray the bottoms of cars or areas that are a little more heavily weathered. Sure you guys don't want to screw up your nice locos, so start on some freight cars that aren't critical, then gradually work your way up. Even if you don't want to weather your engine, I suggest giving it a coat of dullcote to take the "plastic sheen" off. ------------------ Corey Lynch Pres - Rensselaer Model RR Society NEB&W RR http://www.rpi.edu/~lynchc/Railfanning/railfanning.htm - My Site http://www.union.rpi.edu/railroad/ - NEB&W
I use my airbrush to weather. I can get such a fine spray, you can't even tell its not the real thing!! The one problem with this is that if you mess up, there is no going back. But to answer your question, all of my cars are weathered (and all locos). Of coarse, some more than others but they all get there fair share. ------------------ Craig Martyn Best Looking Models Around Custom detailing AND N scale detail parts. BLMA N Scale Detail Parts BLMAinfo@aol.com
To me, there is no such thing as a "BOTCHED" weathering job. Once you run the thing it's lost it's original value anyway. I say weather'em up folks! I pull the roof walks off my MicroTrains cars and weather them too, you should see the looks I get from some of the gang! I don't care about it maybe being a $500.00 car someday. I'll only get the money for it if someone is willing to pay that anyway. The amount of grime I'll apply depends on the loco. My BNSF stuff get's a light coating around the trucks, fuel tanks, screens, vents, exauhst and roof fan areas. Cars get more, but it depends on how old it's supposed to be. Geri Aultum, a member of my club, does a great job with chalks and I'm going to have a work session with her at RoyalBlues Hobby Shop one of these nights. She really knows how to weather. ------------------ BNSF RAILFAN-TO-THE-MAX! Brent Tidaback, Member #234 and a N-Scaler to boot!
Wow Max, I admire your bravery on weathering MT's and you make sense about "once they're run "... and "only worth that amount if someone is willing to pay it"... I have been chicken to weather my Katos and Atlas and MT's just for that reason. (colectability) but I have ruined them (defaced) by weathering the trucks and fuel tanks on all locos and rolling stock anyway so... I may go ahead and weather some after all. Question, I use water based colors mostly "Grimey Black" and water mixed for weathering, but what happens is, where it "puddles" up, after it dries it has a destinct line around where the puddle was, how do I prevent this? ------------------ espee2 Home: www.tunnel13.com layout: SP's Newberg Branch in N scale
I have used dull coat to lock in the chalk before but in a couple of cases it ruined the the job I did with chalk and I had to do it aging. Also with dull coat a lot of times I can see how the dull coat dried, lots of lines and you can tell where it had pooled up and took longer to dry. I try not to use sull coat, is there anything eles? Kevin
Kevin, try using lighter coats of dullcote (may look spotty at first) and holding the can a little further away so you don't get that "pooling" effect. There are other options that can be sprayed from airbrushes made by various paint makers. They are usually called a flat, semi-gloss, or gloss finish. ------------------ Corey Lynch Pres - Rensselaer Model RR Society NEB&W RR http://www.rpi.edu/~lynchc/Railfanning/railfanning.htm - My Site http://www.union.rpi.edu/railroad/ - NEB&W
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Harron: Kevin, try using lighter coats of dullcote (may look spotty at first) and holding the can a little further away so you don't get that "pooling" effect. There are other options that can be sprayed from airbrushes made by various paint makers. They are usually called a flat, semi-gloss, or gloss finish. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE> Thanks for the tip, ill give it a try, Im gonna get a airbrush soon and ill try thaT WAY WHen I do. Kevin
Accu Paint has a really nice satin finish (as well as others). Try that. ------------------ Craig Martyn Best Looking Models Around Custom detailing AND N scale detail parts. BLMA N Scale Detail Parts BLMAinfo@aol.com
