Answer: Etching Shears will not work for long cuts. Try metal ruler straight edge and a hobby knife with the tip of the blade broke off. Score the cut line many times (Carefully). Deeper the better. Then bend the scored side up slightly and then flip, secure it and bend the other way. It'll break on your scored line. Deeper the better. If you have one of those bigger size "Hold and Fold" tools from www.thesmallshop.com you have a better chance of success in your scratch building endeavors!
+1! Thanks. Useful notion about the (broken off) tip of the blade. Would using the back side of the blade be a smart idea? Matt
Regarding the X-Acto blade score, either way the tip will break off against metal, since this may also imbed the tip in the score line and create problems it is better to break it by scoring on a piece of scrap first.
I tried Tim's method out tonight but used a straight edge with my tungsten carbide scriber and voila, after 30 slow scribes the test brass piece broke right apart. Thank Tim. John https://www.amazon.com/Pack-Tungste...ocphy=9005583&hvtargid=pla-485167652096&psc=1
It is what it is!!!! Yes, break the tip off so you can put a bit more pressure on the blade when scoring. It takes a few passes. You want your first pass to be straight and true. A few more careful passes and you now have a trough by which the blade will follow. A few more passes and it should be ready to bend slowly for the break. Chemical etch a line? It's possible. but probably a slow messy process. Use a SHARPIE, black, to color a wide line across where you want to etch. Then use a scribe or the back of a broke hobby blade to expose a nice shiny wide line where you want to etch. Next, pour a small amount of etchant in a plastic or glass cup. Warm it slightly to near 100 degrees then use cotton swabs on long wood sticks to dip into the etchant and work it into the shiny line you scored. Do not get the etchant on the rest of your brass. Only in the SHARPIE area. The etchant won't eat through the SHARPIE. Going to take you wa long time to do it this way!!!! But it is possible. Putting it into an etchant tank is not an option I would choose!
I'm on the edge, I am thinking 50W JPL Fiber Laser. About $7K for a Class 1 enclosure model that I can exhaust the metal fumes. 1 to 600Hz, but it uses the horrible EZCad as a driver. Still no direct windows driver models produced yet, and that's all I am waiting for.
In the past i used a steel ruler or straight edge and a #24 hobby blade. The Number 24 is heavier than the standard #11 so the point holds up a little better. I've also had some success using a Wonder Cutter S and a straight edge. It took a little practice but once i got use to it the power blade on the wonder cutter did a nice job leaving a nice clean cut in just a few passes
All, I received an update on 4/28/22 from Miller Engineering - "everything is being delayed due to current events and also COVID...we're hoping to have them in stock by early Mid May." I'll keep everyone updated as I receive more information. John
All, I received an update on 4/28/22 from Miller Engineering "everything is being delayed due to current events and also COVID...we're hoping to have them in stock by early Mid May." John
After 13+ years, Miller Engineering's Micro-Structures Z scale brass/metal kits return! But the return trip will be very short-lived. Ten downtown building kits & eight Victorian house kits will be re-released. Miller update today - they've started packaging. Availability and pricing will be announced soon so contact your favorite dealer to pre-order. Miller said this will be a small run and he said for sure, his last of the metal kits. https://www.zscalehobo.com/website/microstru_numbers.html
Miller Engineering is the last etched metal kit maker in Z, so it will be a shame to see them go. I have seen too many Z companies come and go over the years, and I fear we have seen the end of injection molded structures, lost wax castings, and now etched brass. Also gone are Floquil, Testors, and Scalecoat Railroad Colors paints, Aztek Model Master Airbrushes... I'm telling you, if you see it, get it, for tomorrow it will be gone!
That's more bad news for T Trak modules, It's a good thing I built all my modules for a banquet table sized layout. The Baltic Birch plywood is what i used, and it's what I use for many of my wood structures too, I buy the 1/64", 1/32", 1/8" and 1/4" thick plywood.
Thanks, Frank This is great news, though bittersweet. As you and Robert have pointed out, this is the end of the line for etched brass kits. No more MicronArts or Train Cat and after this run, no more Miller Engineering. I'd like to thank you and John B and anybody else who contributed in making this special run happen. Thanks for letting Miller know we were still interested. I can't wait to get my order. I've been wanting to add another block of Miller buildings for a long time. As the Z mantra says (I paraphrase)...tomorrow they will be gone. Jim