The Switches were obviously designed for light mechanism like the märklin and their own N scale Code 55. I am sure they are working on a solution as there is 1 model in there product line that minimal rework (but time to produce). You need very little effort to move it a credit card distance. the total throw is .050 The Points have a VERY fine multi-angle spring wire that snaps 'over-center' like there N c55 and Peco switches too. These snag very easily so do not slide the them on cloth or plywood. Carve out some space underneath for it to easily slide. There also is a small square plastic that Points bar that holds it all together. Electrical contacts to the Points is really good. I use the MP1 Switch Machine, sold in the US from Model Control Solutions. This a linear side-to-side mechanism. I chose these (because I already using the for there very low3/4" profile) as the Points and Tie rod were soft plastic and I don't like the leverage angles the Tortoise (and Cobalt) have. Plus they are easier to connect wire to. These are self-reversing mechanisms, not stall motor. You throw it for ~2 seconds and it stops, ready to go the reverse way when the opposite polarity is applied. Model Railroad Control Systems https://www.modelrailroadcontrolsystems.com/
I've been happy with both the Tortoise as well as the MP1. I do have a preference for the lower profile of the MP1 and will be using them for the hard to reach turnouts on my new layout (only 3). Steve W
Wow, the MP1 seems to check all the boxes for me. If these work as-advertised and have a decent life span then I'm sold.
Doug if possible, get the mp5. They are easier to install and you get 2 instead of one additional switches for juicing the frog or changing a signal, etc. Matt
You just have to wait ~3 seconds until it stops or, it will not reverse (you might have manually put a bit of pressure and toggle switch back/forth. This is RARE. There is a gap in the roller for changing polarity contacts for the motor. It’s a micro gap. You just gotta make it sure that it goes all the way. I recommend a standard toggle switch (ON-ON) for Best. The power to rotor cuts off so you can leave power to it for visual direction. If you are nervous about Always On, you can use a ON-Off-ON. If you think you can always hold it until the “Tortoise Grind” stops, then a (ON)-OFF-(ON). For computer drive, you need at LEAST 150mA drive And heed the MP5 suggestion. It really is worth it.
