Has anyone here used these? It is a 'snap-switch' & under-table "turnout-machine" COMBINED which, for the price, does BOTH signals & siding/block power as well? While no good reviews in terms of ease of installation thx to ebay . . Spoiler: I did find & copy instructions here (ps: Had a panic attack yesterday thought had FRIED every turnout machine going? After receiving, installing & testing second hand Atlas controllers (Check! 24v all) machines DO NOTHING, NO RESPONSE at all?)
24 volts? From what I recall, that is high. My memory is they work in the 12 to 14 volt range, possibly very sightly higher.
I have some and they work fine from my MRC Controlmaster 20 and should work with any standard power pack. They have been working for eight years, so far. The critical point to remember with solenoid-type machines is to be absolutely sure power is supplied to the coils for only a split second to throw the points. The current draw is high with these and if you leave the supply connected to the coils for any length of time, at all, it will burn the coil wires. This is true with any solenoid machines unless they have switches in the machine, itself, to disconnect power after the points are thrown. Doug
From what I've read elsewhere (ie: Berrett Hill shop) 24v is 'ok' especially if older or multiple machines are turned simultaneously. My dilemma was (ThankGod!) am using an automotive-style fusebox that has a 'lil red LED that lights if a fuse is blown but, still showing volts at the switch control (duh! via that LED?) there wasn't enough juice to operate anything at all! Another Crisis Averted! Am in the process of rewiring, re-bedding, reconnecting EVERYTHING (ie: 100 new NS rail joiners + 8 more WORKING Atlas switch controls) AND, in the interest of 'KISS" on a "vintage brass dc only" layout, (lol one can read that as "used, 2'nd hand stuff all") that combo 'deluxe' switch machine/relay would kill 4 birds -> frog/siding power + signals + turnout + hidden from view -> all at once? Must investigate further. In deciding to use "AC" for LED lighting & signals "polarity" is no longer an issue so wiring up the two independent sides of the "turnout/snap-relay" should be a fairly simple affair (ie: 'ac' on one side/'dc' track power on other)? (ps: the G/R in-between block signals work great, especially 'round the reverse loops, being 'dc' polarized directly off the track)
"Snap" switch should refer to the Atlas brand. The Atlas Snap switch motors should be 16 volts, or less.
Yes corrected the previous post: it's a combo Atlas "switch-machine" plus "Snap-Relay" my understanding of a 'snap-switch' is one-sided (left or right turnout only HATE THOSE!) and requires no mount screws at all)
