I was just wondering which handrail style all of you prefer. Do you like how Kato does it and molds the walkways and handrail's together? Or do you prefer what Atlas, LifeLike and Bachman do and mold them seprate? I like the Atlas/LL/Bachman way myself, it makes it alot easier to paint the handrails. Kevin
I prefer Atlas's as they are easier to paint, like you said. What I dont like is the delrin material they are made out of, like all are now. But I know some solutions to curing that, so its no big deal. But personally I use Gold Medal Models handrails, and although tough to start off with, the results are excellent. Mike
I prefer the Atlas system, but I can live with either, as long as the models keep being produced One thing we should not have to do with a new locomotive at the current prices, is to paint the walkways the correct colour! (Are you listening, Kato?)
For sure KATO!!! I am speaking from custom painting experience here that the Kato design is a lot esiar and is I think an all over better design than the Atlas hand rails. Just for the count so you know my experience, I am coming up on around 60-70 something paint jobs for a little over a year. 1. Say your air brushing the hand rails from the Atlas units in your spray booth by them selves because they are a different color than the sill and all of the sudden, one blows away into oblivia?? What do you do, not a damn thing, you could waist some time but most things are just gone for good when it comes to things like this. Now, I have NEVER lost a whole Kato hand rail section. 2. Sort of the same experience as above. Lets say you are done spraying the hand rails and now you need to polk them in the sill. You are going to HAVE to apply a little presure to get them in, and some don't even want to go in (because of paint, etc.). I can almost garuntee you that at least a little paint will flake off. This is just great after you have done a kicken paint job. And yes, it does flake off on Kato hand rails to, but you do NOT have to handle the Kato hand rails at all if you don't want to. etc., etc., etc... I have more commentary on this but will move on to other things. Once again KATO!
craig a way to keep kato rails from flaking paint is to soak them in vinegar. the acid in the vinegar etches the palstic causing a rough surface for the paint to adhere to. the longer you soak them the better. it doesn't destroy the plastic.
mopac-What a great tip for painting handrails. I've asked around the hobby shop for years and the answer was always "there is no way to etch Derlin". Thanks
Hmmm, I though everyone knew how to combat those delrin parts. Like suggested vinegar works, but if you have access to one or feel like buying one, get an abrasive gun. Badger I think sells one for a low price which you spray some sort of metal oxide to "etch" the surface. This is a great way to not only prep surfaces but to also even get rid of factory paint jobs. You can also pick up North Coast something or another's blast booth, which I heard is solid gold for modeling purposes. Just some other solutions. Mike
You can also try diluting about 50% Microscale Kristal Klear, I use it neat to repair broken Kato H/rails also, just paint the stuff on first and PRESTO! Works for me,
I have an abrasive gun, I use it to clean up brass models prior to painting. But not sure I dare use it on plastic Would have to test it on a spare locomotive first.
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by nug: You can also try diluting about 50% Microscale Kristal Klear, I use it neat to repair broken Kato H/rails also, just paint the stuff on first and PRESTO! Works for me, <HR></BLOCKQUOTE> When you use the word "neat", does that mean full strength (un-diluted)? Do you paint it on and then use glue to make the repair?
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Mopac3092: craig a way to keep kato rails from flaking paint is to soak them in vinegar. the acid in the vinegar etches the palstic causing a rough surface for the paint to adhere to. the longer you soak them the better. it doesn't destroy the plastic.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE> Yup, I'll back you on that one Pac-Man! Works like a charm!
I've been thinking about getting an abrasive gun. Micro Mart has one that they claim will "etch glass" or "remove paint with out harming the plastic detail". Does any body have any experience removing factory paint with one and not eat holes in the body? I've read of person using one to fade the lettering on Southern Pacific engines. Bill Webb
I use coffee grounds, pecan shell and walnut shell grindingd instead of sand. The coffee makes a fine slight dullness, but still semi-gloss surface, Pecan makes a duller surface, and Walnut will remove rivets, hinges etc when needed. Un less you are rich, put a plastic bag in the blasting tub and re-use the grit. Mark each bag with the grit size and do not mix them. Small detail parts may also be tumbled like semi-precious gem stones for the same effect if you do not have a blaster. It takes a little longer, but is less time to set up and clean up. The vinegar, and Listerene mouth wash also work well, since both are acidic. Rince with clean soda water, then clean water to remove any acid residue. A thin coat of sprayed pure white or yellow paint will not turn brownish with time from the acid.
G'day Mike, Kristal Klear neat = Full strength. I use it as a glue, it works very well and is invisible. Microscale have another good product,Liquitape, I think its called, I use it for applying sunshades. It does not harden, stays flexible, so they don't fall off. Work's for me! Doug
To illustrate the flaking paint problem, this is a photo I took a few minutes ago on my model railroad. The SD45 is waiting for a stack train, led by C44's, to clear the single track.
I have an air eraser, and it works great. It takes the paint off factory shells without a problem. You have to work on one area at a time, and it doesn't take off detail. Unless you fall asleep and hold it in one spot for awhile. I use the sand material that came with the airbrush. I have also, removed lettering with it. The more air pressure you use the faster in cuts the paint. I have been using about 25-30 psi. If you want to see what a shell looks like after a sand blast, goto: Brian Banna Photopoint album - Reading SD45
Just in case anyone is interested in REAL detail on our locomotives, visit my good friend Brian Banna's excellent website. I warn you though, it is unbelivable. Visit http://members.firstinter.net/bbanna/N-SCALE_LEAD_PAGE.htm Mike
