Tonight was a workbench night to be sure… well actually all day was. I got commissioned to build a DC/DCC test stand inside a Dewalt box kinda like my command station. Challenge accepted and I got most of the work on it done, just waiting on a couple parts to finish it up. Then I moved onto a couple unique DCC installs. The first was a really old Lima passenger train. It had a single truck pickup and the other truck was powered. There was no UPC on the box, but a styrofoam holder for the train and cars, so I’m guessing mid to late 70’s. It doesn’t run well, but it does run. It didn’t run well as DC either, and marginally better as DCC. Same customer also had me do a DCC install in an old Kato locomotive. Not sure what type of locomotive it is, it’s an electric with a 2 axle leading and following truck and 2 three axle trucks in the middle. It’s double ended so both sides look the same. It took some milling and creative wiring to get working but it does run good. Much better as DCC than it did DC. Next up is my stuff. The easy was a decoder install in a Kato E9. Next I tackled putting rapido couplers on some old mech F3s. These pull some RivaRossi passenger cars that also have rapidos, and that’s all I will ever use these locos for so that works. I had to get creative with one of my B units, someone put Micro Trains couplers on it already, and snipped off the pin for the coupler spring. So I had to trim the rapido down so the Micro Trains spring box would fit back in and tension the coupler. It works, but I would prefer the factory way of doing it. I will try to find some really old trucks… And tomorrow’s work is staged and ready to go on my workbench, which is replacing the Kato couplers on my Santa Fe F7s with Micro Trains as for some reason the Kato’s just decided they wouldn’t couple any more. I had a derailment and after that, nothing, I can’t seem to figure out why they don’t work any more, only one B unit derailed, but neither B unit will stay together. Sorry no pics tonight, I will get some tomorrow.
I am looking forward to the pictures! I had been thinking about doing something similar. My DCC setup has the command station + loconet converter + rasberry pi to run JMRI and it is always messy when I set it up. Was thinking about boxing it all up so there was just a single power cord and on off switch. Plus keeps all the messy wiring hidden.
I wasn’t planning on doing a build of this since I have already done build threads on 2 others, but I can snap a couple pics as I finish assembly.
While looking for something else in my motor vehicle box, I came across a bag full of Wiking VW bugs and vans. These were so common when I was a kid and still were in my layout's 1970's / 80's era that I decided I wanted to dress some up for use on the layout. Just a little cleaning up of some flash, painting the wheels and then adding some details with sharpie pens makes a difference. Before: After: Looking at some old photos I see some other detailing I can do and I may even paint some of the bodies in different colors.
Even with DC, what you use to remotely control switches, signals, etc. also could be stored in the box (all wired together). Store remote throttles in there too. You might even want a short test/programming track (for DCC anyway). Of course, if you put everything you'll ever need in there, it will be too big and heavy to take anywhere! So add wheels! And a trailer hitch! Heck, just store in all in a motor-home, and drive it wherever you want to go... Just drive it to the hobby shop, and pick up more stuff with it!
On popular demand I will now reveal my latest workbench creation. Paul from PnP trains liked my command station box I use at shows so he asked if I could build him something similar for his business. So I agreed and got started last weekend. This is set up to test HO and N scale trains as well as program them using a Digitrax DCS210+ or an ESU programmer. The ESU will plug in from the outside. There is also a USB port for computer interface as well as a USB charging station for their phones and card reader. Since not all trains are DCC I have included a DC throttle for testing them as well. Just your basic DeWalt Tought System 2.0 box on the outside Here is the layout inside. Test fitting the top deck with the test tracks. This is the switches that change the modes between DCC/DC, Test/Program and ESU or everything else. And once everything gets wired up and good to go, you will get this as the final result!
I will show you here in a few, I’m just finishing up the last of the wiring now. Had to take a break to rest my neck.
Ok here ya go! The 2x2 Power Pole port is where the ESU or other external programmer and a track output is. The 2 black are the programmer input and the red is the track output. Below this is the power port. It uses a standard PC power plug and has a master switch.
Will you be taking orders Just kidding, or am I? That is just amazing. Some people are so talented, and you are one of them. Along with a bunch of other people on these forums.
I'm trying to remember whether that kind of receptacle is for universal 110/220 VAC power. If so, you should ensure that what is wired to it on the inside is compatible with both voltages. Many laptop bricks, PCs, etc. work with both voltages, with just a change in power cords/plugs. Fantastic work!!!
Those come apart pretty easy so should be a snap. I purchased mine with sound from the factory but wanted to make the emergency light operational so wound up taking it apart anyways to do that.
Link is for any rookies like me doing it, really good step by step. I basically did exactly same thing he did in video. I couldn't find my Dremel so i used micro files, so it Took little longer. I added the cardboard spacer like he did toward the front of the Decoder. I was hoping I wouldn't have to do any trimming, as this Decoder is newer than the one in the video. I thought it may fit a tad better. But Its physically the same thing. Question- So I only have DC right now, DCC is on order. It runs but seems like it needs more juice. Headlight turns on in fwd but isn't that bright. Bell rings on its own in fwd and reverse; and isn't as loud as it should be. If I listen really close I can hear running sound. Tried to post a short video, but it isn't allowing me. I am hoping this is just because it needs DCC? I thought they ran on DC also? Freddy Where is the emergency light? And how did you get it operational? I wish it had a reverse light also. But I am glad I got it installed. Just hope it is functioning correctly.
There is more than just a cord that would need to be replaced. The 2 power supplies inside are 110v only. I highly doubt this is going on a trip to Europe any time soon as well.
Wait so you installed a DCC decoder and are running it on DC? I know most of the time they say it will work, but I would be very, very careful. Unless I misunderstood you? There are many more people on here that know more then I do about running DCC on a DC layout. I could be completely wrong, but just know I fried a DCC decoder running it on my DC layout once, even though it stated it was fine Good luck, be careful!
I think you've got that reversed. Almost all DCC decoder has a DC mode. Some may be disabled in which case the loco just sits there. You can turn DC mode on and off with a CV. The problem occurs when you try to run a DC loco on a DCC system. Some, like Digitrax has "stretching" of the DCC wave form so the DC loco sees a lengthy part of the power and thinks it's DC. The danger becomes when the loco just sits there. The stretching causes the motor to heat up (you usually can hear the buzzing and humming) but since the loco is not moving, the heat builds up, eventually destroying the motor.
