I am embarking on a fair sized N scale garage layout and was planning to use Thompson Wood Sealer once the track is down. A friend advised me to use an acrylic paint rather than Thompsons as it will stay waxy and require additional treatments over the years. Would you fine folks have any suggestions or shared experiences on the subject of sealing the benchwork to reduce the effects of expansion and contraction of the benchwork from humidity and temperature? My last garage layout project of 2004 to 2014 had issues every year when the heat kicked in. I am in Riverside California where the heat becomes extreme.
I haven't put anything on mine but humidity and temps are pretty constant in the shop. Thinking about this problem for some I wonder if using foam board over plywood or other framework would lessen the chances of having a problem. I'm using 1 inch foam board over 1/2" plywood for the entire layout. I'd think the foam board would be effected less by temp and humidity. I like the foam board myself. Nice flat surface, easy to attach cork to for the roadbed and you can always carve some features into it at any time. Not all that expensive either. I think I once figured out that 1/2" plywood and 1" of foam board is less or no more that say buying a HCD if one is going that route. Sumner
I am close to several BIG ponds so the humidity varies much. I am of the thought that sealing the entire board before laying down the track is far more important. The humidity could slowly pass through cork or foam and plastic is also porous. But yes Thompson's is not permanent.
i don't see why the moisture proofing on the bench work ?? are you planning on spilling some liquid there ?
I am just a bit north and east of you, so, yeah.... summer heat. I agree with Sumner... foam over plywood. I also agree with whoever told you to stay away from Thompson's. Good stuff, but not for this use case. Regular exterior house paint will do you just fine. If you are really concerned, build in a couple of expansion joints in your benchwork and overlap the slabs of foam so that the expansion joint is not directly under the foam joint. And do not glue the foam on the part that lays over the joint on the benchwork. Scenery hides a multitude of sins! Shrubs and bushes can conceal the gap quite nicely. Buildings, too, can bridge the gap, just leave the part spanning the joint un-glued. Trackage can be handled in the same way. Have two power drops, one on each side of the gap, and bridge the gap with a track joiner, just loose enough to allow the track to slide. Remember, the amount of movement is likely to be VERY small, so it's unlikely that the track will completely separate. Good luck!
I do not recall the Thompson's being "waxy". However, I am not certain why indoors you might need repeat applications? I have never used it inside, but have on decks/outdoors. Despite their ads, it does not hold up well at all. Requires an almost annual re-application, due to the various elements. But you do not face those indoors. ???
Thanks for the suggestions and shared experiences. I'll go with a light colored latex for the underside and something generic dirt color for the top side.
Thompson's sucks . that stuff is GARBAGE . if your going for moister barrier oil is your friend any oil will do. wipe it on let it sit then wipe on some more. three or four times and for being indoors its sealed for a very long time. when i built my wood flat bed for my old chevy i use diesel fuel and used motor oil that was 3 years ago and its holding up just fine. been in snow rain and dirt you name it its had it.. Farmers way back when used motor oil and diesel if they could spare it for there fence post and 100 years later those post are still good to go. ask any farmer that been in farming for any good length of time. Now a days the epa and tree huggers will get ya for that . but it sure as heck works. of coarse i dont care about what any of them think any ways.........
Hey sidney........how does using oil work as far as painting afterwords, or for gluing scenery and such down? I can see it as a good option for a truck bed, and fence posts, but I'm wondering about model trains............Everything I've ever seen treated with oil stunk of oil for years afterwards. Not saying it won't work, but I'd love more details.............
Mr Dave i really dont know ive never tried painting it . I just know that it will make it moisture proof. it was just a suggestion. I suppose one could use linseed oil or similar and for painting use an oil base paint and let that cure real good. I dont know. Good points though. One could oil the wood work then use foam board over that . then the wood will be protected from moisture and then with the foam board on top you can do all the painting ect.... I just know that oil of some form or other will protect wood from moisture . side note my truck bed dont stink no mo. but its used a lot. linseed oil dont stink . its used on wood instruments ect to protect them.. I use coconut oil on my cutting boards with no smells.....
