Sorry about all the questions thanks for all your answers. Is it possible to have 2 ovals and connect them such as having a frieght train go to the inside oval and service industries while a passenger train runs the outside? how do you connect the 2? I have been thinking about this but don't know how to connect them. Also i was thinking of having spurs off the inside track. It seems i think bigger than i can do "don't we all".
Hi, It most certainly is possible to have two trains running in different directions on two ovals of track. You don’t say what type of points (Switches) you are using, but you will need to isolate the points that you use as a crossover. If in fact you would like to run four trains (two on one oval and two on the other, then block control will have to be installed. Here is a very simple track plan showing just where to add blocks if you are using Electro Frogs (Live frogs) if you need any further help, you can email me. Paul
Paul I don't have any switches yet still trying to decide what i want to do . There is a train show tommorrow i am going to hopefully i will find some "good deals" there . What type of switches do you recomend? Could not find your e-mail adress . This is a HO scale and on a 5x9 foot table. [ 17 May 2002, 18:35: Message edited by: plbab ]
I personally would recommend Peco for all your track & Points because I have used that brand all my life, but having said that there are on the market many other excellent types of track in H0. It is your choice in the end friend. Paul
Everything Paul has said is correct, and he is a master modeler to say the least, but "block control" is definitely old school, and if you can, you should go DCC. This would eliminate all the blocks, insulated rail joiners, and wiring headaches. To connect the two ovals you need to make a "crossover". That is, two identical switches (2 lefts, or 2 rights) facing each other, with their "diverging routes" (curved rails) connected. If you use Atlas or Peco Insulfrog turnouts, you will not have to "isolate the points" regardless if you use DCC or conventional DC operation. If I were you, I would get the track laid (without blocks), purchase a decoder equipped Atlas engine (or two), a used cheapo powerpack, and start running trains, ballasting track, building scenery, and saving money for the Digitrax Zephyr DCC system which should be out in a few months. It's list price is going to be $199, so a "street" price should put it below $150. You'll be rockin'!
I want to jump in here to prevent some possible misunderstanding about DCC and insulated rail joints. The rules for using insulated rail joints are the same for DCC as for DC. You MUST make an insulated break in the rail anywhere that a short could occur. With DCC you still must keep current from flowing from one rail to the other except through the motor or other circuits otherwise you will have a short. The statement about not requiring insulated rail joints may be true if you are using the turnouts you specified but I don't want people to start thinking that you don't need them at all.
