Question in general, what are some possible causes of a loco running fine with the shell off but acts like it is getting no power with the shell on? In particular, this is a Kato ALC-42 with a Digitrax NON sound board in it.
If it hums, the body is blocking the drivetrain. If it doesn't, it's moving some component out of contact, breaking the electrical connection.
I would make sure the shell does not press the motor contacts against the frame. Also, a touch of solder to add to the pressure where the decoder contacts slide into the frame tabs would help. This is assuming the loco is of the split frame type.
Thanks guys. After taking the shell off fiddling and putting it back on a few times, it's working fine now. No idea what I did that fixed it. Pics later maybe.
Well, here is a pic. I'm done for the most part but did do some damage during the shell on an of parade. If anyone else does an install in one of these be prepared. The You Tube guys make the shell removal look easy but it's a pita. They also show flexing that red stripe section along the bottom. It is a separate part from the shell and while it does flex, my was no where near as flexible and strong as what most of the vids show.
Based on my similar issues with a Kato P42- it comes down to the contacts from the bronze strips to the bottom of the PCB. I ended up soldering wires onto the PCB from the bronze strips, tossed the gray clip, and everything is fine now. I tried flexing the bronze strips, adding a bit of sponge between the shell and the PCB, a few layers of paper, etc. But, the shell gradually moved up from the force and vibration, and the contact would be flakey again. Hard wiring is now my starting point.
Been there almost did that... I use round toothpicks to wedge and get to where the frame tabs are. Still, it's difficult to get between that skirting, the frame and the shell. Your lighting looks good. Brian
BNSF- Try this- I use 4 light guitar picks. Slide them in at the ends of the shell, one on each side. Then gently put your fingernails under the center area of the shell, and it should slip off. I fought the same issues you mentioned. I also use the toothpick trick sometimes, but the guitar picks put less stress on the shell. Good luck!
Man, that is a great idea and I just passed on some free guitar picks while was out yesterday. Didn't see this until I got home last night. I will say that they may or may not have helped on the Charger. If you look at the unit, the red band along the bottom doesn't go off with the shell. You have to go between it and the white band which does make it harder. I guess the good news is the unit is still running great a week later.
If you have a small flat tweezer, gently slide one side of the tweezer between the shell and the bottom piece at about the middle. Then slide the tweezer to one end. Twist gently, and insert the guitar pick. Repeat at the other 3 corners. Then, pop the shell off with your finger nails as noted above. Works like a charm...
I've found the same misleading advice exists on many of YouTube's automotive videos as well. I've since learned that "a five minute job" equates to a five hour job and that yes, something will break in the process.
