Coming from a hardcore (published, no less) MILW nut like you, Greg, that's a mighty kind compliment! They'll be even better with AWW, airlines, brake rigging, etc...
Hey brilliant job there Jere,they'd pull a squillion dollars on the 'bay.I like your taste in loco's & paint Boxy Nice to see Tamiya tape so popular these days How painful are the cut levers to fit Jere,I'm painting an AC4400 in SP & thinking of buying one of Craigs GE detail sets.
I just cannot seem to install the cut levers so that they function. I have tried on other locos, too, and just cannot get it right. These are glued on static. I had a roll of Tamiya tape back a few years ago, and it was as straight as the D&RGW grade profile.:thumbs_down: Never again have I bought it, since the cheapo stuff works for me.
What??? They don't work? Next thing you'll tell me, the horns won't blow either! mg: Does the radio work? :rolleyes2: :wink2: Boxcab E50
Update: More time today was devoted to the 4000's... Both units' all-weather windows are installed, painted, and glazed with MKK. The numberboards are MKK'd, painted, and decaled on both units. (The MKK trick was best, as the Shellscale decal numberboards were perfect size. I also printed inkjet labels for the numberboards, as a 'Plan B'. The Microscale sheet numbers were much too small. Literally and figuratively!) MT couplers and trainline air hoses installed on 4005. Grab irons highlighted black, as per proto photos. Turbo vents installed on both units. Misc touchup, highlighting, and other painting done. Fuel tank, sight glass, and fillers highlighted in red. What's left: Highlight handrail ends in white, both units. Install brake rigging on both units' trucks, and dullcoats them. Install couplers, trainline air hoses on 4002. Assemble both units..... Pics soon! BTW, Ken, the MT packet you provided included parts for only one pair of 1015's...:shade: I have more to do the second unit..:shade:
There is enough 1016's, but the 1015's are used up. The pack only included 1016 draftgear boxes, too. I have those as well. If you manage to find a unit to become 4008, you can send a couple extra then. No sense in sending a pair out all by itself..
That's weird! mg: Hmmm... I definitely would not want 1016's..... Anyhow, many thanks for helping this along! :embarassed: Boxcab E50
As long as I had sat on these, awaiting time, ambition, and energy to get them done, it's the least I could do.... It was a simple fix--the 1016 box has a casting bump that steps down for the extra length. I simply clipped it off. I have some MT's from my IM F7's that I am swapping out for unimates on my B-units--if those are 1015's, they are already assembled! Bonus!:thumbs_up:
I value your advice--I used tissue paper, and flourescent lights. I brightened the shots in photoshop... My white balance was set for flourescents, BTW, at least I thought I had it set right... The resulting shots were far too dark.
The problem with flourescents is the "visual" light you see is generally much, "better" than the quantity of light they produce over distance. They are a highly diffused linear light source to begin with. They light they produce falls off much quicker over distance than with a point source light (tungsten bulb or electronic flash). This could explain your exposure issues. Try using the spot meter mode, if you have it, and meter off of the MILW orange. In greyscale, the orange is close enough to a average grey to give you exposure within a stop. If anything, it would cause a little over exposure. The tissue paper was a great idea. I used a sheet because I also shoot with 1000W tunsten studio lights and it would be too easy to set a tissue tent on fire with a light while I was busy trying to position the subject. Another hint on shooting small objects: Get some white (bright white) cardstock. Cut one piece as long as your subject and at least 2x as tall. Fold it in half along the long center. Make a few smaller cards the same way. When you have the model and lights in a preliminary set up, use the cards to, "kick" light into areas that are too dark. I set them right next to the subject, but out of the field of view. You can adjust the light by moving the cards or changing the angle of the fold. Does wonders for bringing out the details in trucks and undersides. I also use aluminum foil, taped to the card, when I want to add light but also increase contrast.
two more things: Your camera's balance for flourescent lights may be for the normal "cool white" bulbs. The bulb may be warm or daylight balanced, which could cause the camera to see it to, "warm". You can check the bulb. For color testing when I shoot, I throw a 18% grey card into the subject and take three shots. I then look at all three shots on my view screen to see how they look. The Canon I used to use allowed me to zoom in right on the card in the viewer. If needed, I would then custom balance my setting. It was a $3,000 camera at the time, so it had bells and whistles galore. Two, inspite of all this electronic stuff, I still carry my 1948 GE averaging meter with me. It allows me to measure the light and ensure that the camera sensors were not fooled. Film may not be as good as digital sensors, but GE meters and Nikon F2's work just fine without batteries.
Interesting read! I have cheapo 40W bulbs in my shoplights--no special 'daylight' types. I sometimes shoot with a handheld drop light from the garage... I should have again. Not to worry, I can take more shots again...
Hemi: I like the 4000's, of course. Wonderful masking job. But, this discourse on lighting for small models is great, too! :thumbs_up: Thanks, cmstpmark, I will try the white cards. I use digital with a flourescent setting. I try to photograph models in a pale blue environment. I just presumed it was a "neutral" color. OTOH, there should probably be a thread on this. Great topic that we used to hijack Hemi's thread.
