Another thing to consider is the thickness of the 'paper' Thinner paper will show lines where you lay down the glue. I use fine sandpaper for roofing material.. It leaves a nice texture plus if you want to 'weather' it...all you have to do is run your dry fingers over it ! The below buildings where roofed and 'weathered' with the sandpaper and super glue 5 years ago and none of it has lifted or bubbled a bit. .
And the black stuff is usually wet/dry sandpaper so you can use water based adhesive with no worries.
I tried to take close-up of the plastic roof. I can't get it close enough for you to see the molded lines on the roof. where i have that wing that comes out over the receiving tracks i had to move because of the way the layout is made. i tried sanding it but it made it worse it was made i a way that the wing panels were kinda held in place by those marks. My plan is to try and use the glue stick for the plastic to paper. as Country Joe said. I will be painting the building with a dark red color to match the boiler house and the drying kiln. The plastic i will be using one like the super glue kind. That or the thick super glue that fills in between seams. I need to go up to the hobby lobby and see what they have. Wally World here don't have all that much for hobby stuff. I have been to them when i was in Tucson and they had way bigger selections. I am in a smaller town so they are not as big. They have been building some kind of addition to there building for about a year now but don't know what is going in that part of the store. Big Jake, thanks I didn't know about there being two kinds of the gorilla glue. You just might have helped me to not make another mess! DeaconKC, chalkboard paint? what is that? I don't remember ever seeing that. is it something new or just not sold around here? Is there a place i wonder that sales it around here. We have Hobby Lobby. I would have to drive over 150 miles to get to a big city hobby store. Dallas and Oklahoma City are about that far from me in different directions. Thanks for the help with this project.
Maybe a glue stick (Elmer's, etc.) would work best with paper? It can provide a very thin coating of adhesive, allowing smooth application, with less moisture to distort the paper.
Try microscale liquid tape. Although it never fully dries hard it holds great. I have Models over 25 years old using it and still holding. Apply it to the plastic surface and when tacky enough apply the paper to it. You'll probably want to apply a very thin coat to the paper side as well to ensure the best adhesion surface.
ok, thanks for the ideas folks. I did finally get a couple of shots of the plastic roof that shows the markings molded into the plastic. This was the main reason i papered it to begin with. Thanks again for all the ideas and everything else. This is part of the centerpiece and i want to to reflect the work done on the layout. Thanks to all of you i got a shot of doing it right. Shots below. Smoke
Sorry for no updates. I went out for dinner Weds and caught a head cold from someone there at the restaurant. I haven't done anything and some of the meds the doctor gave me makes me sleep a lot. Doesn't pay to have a birthday party. I don't remember wanting a present of a cold ....
I am wondering if heat like 80+ heat indoors can cause glues to break down? If it can is there better glues that won't break down in time because if heat. Here in Texas we have been having a whole summer of 100-115 degree heat days and my office is on the other side from where the return is and my office gets over 80 to sometimes 85 degrees. So i am wondering if i was on to something. any ideas other than a separate a/c in my office? I have been working on the sawmill again. I have the building ready for paint the roof is all sanded down and ready for the roofing to be done. I am waiting for this head cold i have to leave before i spray the walls of the building. Have a couple of shots of the job being done.
80-85F should not bother adhesives. Are they stored in a dark place? Light (especially from older florescent fixtures) may have more UV that can break down plastics (including many adhesives.) Store them in a dark place, rather than out on a shelf, etc. Is the A/C in your train room not blowing as hard as it is in the rest of the house? Is the air coming out of the vent in your train room warmer than the air that comes out of the vents closer to the return? How old is your AC system? You should probably talk to a trusted A/C professional. Several years ago, when our A/C needed replacing, we had a higher efficiency, variable speed system installed, that almost always blows cool air slowly, and speeds up only as needed to keep the temperature within the thermostat setting. It made a huge improvement in the distribution of cool air throughout the house (well, upstairs and downstairs are separate units, both replaced.) Slow-flowing air creates much less drag in the ducts, etc. and therefore more even distribution of the cool air throughout the house. I'm in the DFW metroplex, so I (literally) feel your pain this summer!
its a slower force than other rooms. I had the a/c guy out here twice this year. He says that the a/c system is working ok but the heat and the kind of construction of this house are the reasons that it isn't as cool in here. The main vent coming into my office is almost doing a U turn to get to the vent in this office. I can feel it if i am a few feet from it but it don't seem to move much air at all. One of the reasons is this house is 70+ years old. There was a addition to the original house that made it almost twice the size it was. The outside walls was stone. but not much insulation. My nephew has torn out walls and added insulation as he could. He put a lot of work into this place before he had to go,{transferred}, He wanted for us to move out of the rv and his brother who was in bad health to have a place to live as long as we wanted. I am planning to add a a/c unit to the one window in the room and that should help as in the winter it gets on the cold side. I want one of those heater/a/c units maybe 12000 btu's. I use led dimmable lights in my office. Yep we lived in hell this summer. I feel for your area too!! its 90 outside as i write this and its 80 in the room. i see it up to 85 or so and it takes a long time for the room to cool as that stone in the wall holds the heat,{or cold}, in. May the weathermen be all wrong this year. Snow is not in my plans.
My grandparent's house on the farm was flagstone exterior, with rough cut 2x4 oak framing, built in 1948 (NW Ark. Ozark Mts). They didn't need A/C back then (it needs it now, but my cousins live there, and it's their problem.) My grandfather designed & built it for good cross-flow ventilation, with wide eves so they could keep the windows' upper sashes open, even in the rain. Oh, the smell of a good rain in the country... Where were we? Oh, yeah... Depending on the size of the room, and whether a window is in a good place to host a window unit, you might look at a mini-split heat pump. They don't block your window (or create a security risk), and need only a small hole in the wall. Otherwise, window-mount heat pumps (heat and cool) are available.
Well, I got most of the roof done. I have some touch up and the wind to finish and that will be done. I like they way its turning out. That Elmers glue stick Works! It sucked that paper right down tight!! Shots below, Smoke
I sprayed the walls with the new paint and touched up the windows. I over painted the roof as i was seeing some of the grey showing through the seams in the roof paper. It really came out better than i thought. I have shots below. It takes time for the Gorilla glue to dry so it will be tomorrow before i can place it back on the layout. Thanks again folks!! Smoke
I have you to thank on what glue to use on the roof. Can't remember who told me about the Gorilla Glue right now. Its a slow glue but it holds like crazy! It just has to remain clamped till it drys hard. Tomorrow it should be ready for the layout. Thanks again, Smoke
well, i backed up a bit. I was thinking i was ready to put the model back on the layout and things started falling off. Based on what i have found, Don't use Gorilla glues. I was looking at a on-line mag and found the name for glues i had forgot about. Jet Brand. I used these on different models that were paper, cardboard and plastic and metal. Its a ca type glue but its got holding quality that is the best. I used it for years but haven't done anything for years that needed it. I wish i had remembered it when i was putting the different models together. I couldn't find it here but Hobby Lobby has there own brand that is a dead ringer for Jet. So i went and got three bottles of lite, medium and thick along with some accelerator and started working on that model again. It took me around 20 minutes to fix the issues i had with gorilla. It stayed fixed too. The sawmill is back home on the layout and don't look to bad. Shots of that below. Also i had a gift card for my birthday that i used with some Model Tech and ordered two sets of sawman and saw for the logging camp. have a shot of them too. The houses or the river...which do i attack next? More later, Smoke
